Located just under where Earnest Hemingway lived in the early 20s.
Cheap drinks, interior typical to dive bar, friendly staff.
Supposedly on the spot where they have been selling wine since the late 1500s.
Crepes and more. Very well liked as can be seen by the frequently long lines.
Good food, reasonable price, nice and inexpensive table wine. A local favorite. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed between 15:00 and 18:00.
This is a breakfast, brunch and lunch place. No dinner.
Seems like it would be a tourist trap but it\\\'s not. Nice barman, inexpensive drinks at the bar and good if not great food.
Updated French bistro is popular with mid-day student crowd and professional lunches. Highly recommended. NO DINNER SERVED, just cold plates.
Not a sit down affair. Good, strong and cheap coffee.
Nice open bistro onto a fairly busy square / market
By Chris
Rue Mouffetard in Paris’ 5th arrondissement is the definition of the beaten path. It does not have undiscovered nooks with kindly shop-keepers who serve up surprisingly delicious food or have piles of rare antiques with that certain something that you have been searching the world over. Instead it is a touristic production line that churns through 1000s of visitors in its countless bistros, restaurants, bars, pubs and sidewalk cafes. To the uninformed and travel elitist it is merely a Left Bank cliche full of indifferent service, mediocre food and cheap souvenirs. However, if you’re able to accept, as my recent tour guide Alex said, that “you are a tourist” than you’ll find that rue Mouffetard is an exceptional opportunity to enjoy Paris on a budget. It certainly has some good finds and overall great deals set in a bustling neighborhood that was born in Roman times close to 2000 years ago. A walk from the top of Mouffetard to the bottom will give you ample opportunity to take in small fun cafes and inexpensive restaurants. Here are some I want to share.
Let’s start our exploration at the top of Mouffetard at 39 rue Descartes which is just above Mouffetard and close to the Pantheon, where Fucoult’s Pendulum is located. In the 1920’s a poor and unknown Earnest Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, lived in this building in a small third floor cold-water walk-up. Today there is a plaque just under a canopy for a restaurant named La Maison de la Verlaine that informs passers by that Hemingway lived there from 1921-25. We ate a Sunday lunch there that included two fixed menus plus wine which totaled close to 50€. I had the frog legs with pomme frites which I thought were average (you never really want average frog legs) and overall we didn’t think the place or food were remarkable.
Down the street about 200 meters is Place de la Contrescarpe which is surrounded by some typical Parisian cafes and pubs– among them is Cafe Delmas, formerly Cafe des Armateurs which Hemingway called the cesspool of Mouffetard which now is now is nice but somewhat corporate – that occupy prime real estate for people watching, grabbing a drink and enjoying this classic square. Any of the cafes offer a similar experience and all are quite pricey relative to their neighbors just a few dozen meters away in any direction. Nevertheless, they are less expensive alternatives, if not as fashionable, to their counterparts on the Champs or in Saint Germain, and all have the added benefit of very limited motor traffic therefore less noise.
As you are walking through this area you will probably notice lot’s of signs advertising Happy Hour at the scores of bars in the area– funny enough: the French wanted to get rid of the term ‘week-end’ because it is English but ‘happy hour’ seems to be going strong. Generally happy hours in Paris are from 17:00 (5 pm) to 20:00, sometimes as late as 22:00, and drink prices are heavily discounted as much as 50%. Mouffetard has some of the best (i.e. cheapest) happy hours in Paris. Here are two pub selections: one chosen for its comfortable atmosphere and inexpensive drinks and the other for its history. PUB #1, The Fifth Bar located at number 62. This dive is a neighborhood hangout / college pub that offers the cheapest happy hour pints in the area, and I would guess Paris, for only €2.50. The Fifth Bar also has free English newspapers and magazines, a friendly bar staff, beer-pong tournaments and the whole place seems to be set-up to meet people. It is a good choice for groups, lone travelers, everyone sticking to a budget, and they will show the match / game (NFL, Soccer, Rugby) if you ask. Happy hour ends at 21:00 (9pm) with drink specials all night on Thursdays. PUB #2, Roadhouse le Vieux Chene at number 69. Not as cheap as Fifth Bar but it still has worthwhile happy hour deals ranging from €3.50 Stellas to €6.00 cocktails. The interior is clean rustic, which means that it is designed to look like an old roadhouse. I have been there a couple of times and the bar staff has always been friendly. To me the history of a place is always a big draw and this pub has the distinction of being in a location that has been selling wine since the late 1500s as explained on the historical marker just to the left of the entrance.
Now to eat. Paris has a variety of crepe and sandwich stands. From shoddy set-ups in the back of trucks to take away (emporter) windows in established restaurants these French stuffed pancakes can be an inexpensive and filling meal. I am not a crepe connoisseur and historically I thought that all crepes are pretty similar, however, as I have experienced on Mouffetard this simply is not the case. AU P’TIT GREC at number 66 seems to be an institution as evidenced by all the people migrate there leaving adjacent crepe shops empty. I have tried these crepes which are made by a Greek family from Thessaloniki and I was impressed. Their crepes are the most interesting I have eaten in that the proprietors instill their Greek heritage by mixing in some feta with the usual ingredients. It’s worth the wait and prices are right in line with the competition at €3 to €4.50 so they seem to be winning this crepe war based solely on their superior product.
For more of a sit down experience try Le Mouff’tot Mouff’tard at number 73. In terms of the food it was above average- not outstanding, but good–, yet when the cost of about €40 per person including wine (wine there- table wine anyways- is cheap (€9 per 50cl), a rarity in Paris) is factored in this restaurant becomes a good choice. When I ate there pushed the upward price bounds (i.e. the most expensive menu and numerous carafes wine) and the price was still reasonable. The owner and his wait staff were very attentive and I was particularly impressed that when I left something there and returned a week later that they had remembered me and were happy to return my property. This is no Michelin star property but it came recommended by some people in the neighborhood and it met my expectations as a decent place with good food at a reasonable price.
A classic French brasserie that I like a lot is called Le Mouffetard at 116. From its appearance this is a cliche French brassiere, a possibly a tourist trap, because of its ornate trimmings, colorful vintage French advertising posters and zinc bar. Yet, I have found this restaurant to be friendly, if you take your drink at the bar it is cheap and the food is good. One of my favorite meals there was a cheesy, potato and bacon dish called tartiflette (€11 including a small salad) which was served in an individual baking dish so you know that it was baked fresh as opposed to just reheated and slapped on a plate. Tartiflette comes from the mountain region in France and it an excellent and hardy meal for one of those cold and damp Parisian winter days.
Another restaurant that was recommended by locals is called La Salle a Manger at 138, specializing in salads and tartines, located in the market area at the end of the rue. They are only open for breakfast, lunch and brunch. I had a salad that was big enough for two and was a nice break from the more traditional French fare. The prices are very affordable to the budget conscious and this restaurant is also nice because of its outdoor seating amidst the hustle and bustle of the market- if you are into that type of thing.
For a little more of an elegant affair or perhaps a glass of wine try Cave La Bourgogne at 144. This is another classic French brasserie but what I find most interesting is that it is decorated with vintage pictures of the area. I always like these places and tremendously enjoy the pictures of people doing the exact some thing in the same place but 50 years or so ago. Cave La Bourgogne is perfect for a cup of coffee €1.20 or a glass of wine €3.00 and it also has a nice terrace with excellent people watching values. For a quick lunch or a snack they have a great country platter (cheese, meat and vegetables served on a wooden cutting board), which will run about €10.00.
Last and my favorite of the lot is Cafe Lea which is located off the bottom of Mouffetard at 5 Claude-Bernard. This cafe is popular with the work crowd so if you want to lunch here either arrive early around noon or after 14:00 when the work crowd has dissipated but you then run the risk of not getting the best menu items as they will have assuredly sold out for the day. The menu is ever changing and consists of variations on classic French dishes. Entrees run around €15 and you can expect to drop ~€25 per person if you want to do the whole French lunch (i.e. entree, desert, wine and cafe), which is a good deal considering the quality food you are getting in Cafe Lea’s fun and fresh atmosphere. The service is efficent, polite and consistent. With that said, they do a booming lunch business and understand that table turn-over equals increased revenues so be prepared for this or try timing your lunch a bit later at around 14:00 as most French will be winding down and going back to work.
Now to wrap up with a great coffee. My personal favorite both for the €1.00 price-tag and quality of coffee is called Brulerie des Ternes at number 111. This cafe, and I use the term loosely, is nothing more than a coffee purveyor with a couple of seats and four standing tables. The coffee is strong and the view is good so for a quick cafe break this place would be hard to beat, especially on a nice day.
Okay now that you are sold on how great the 5th is you probably want to know where to stay. Sure there are lots of hotels in the area and I hope that people will give me some feedback about which they have enjoyed for now all I have is the hostel called Young and Happy at number 80 rue Moufftard. In terms of location this hostel is hard to beat and generally it is everything a backpacker expects in a youth hostel (i.e. bunk beds, shared bathrooms and somewhat cramped quarters). The prices are right in line with other Parisian hostels. The feedback that I have gotten about Y&H has been positive but it has been mentioned by some backpackers I chatted with who were staying there wished it has more social space. However, I spoke with the manager, Charles, and they are in the middle of a renovation so look for more chatting-up space in 2009.
Rue Moufftard may be a heavily touristic area but it is far from a tourist trap if you know where to go. Mix tourists in with French students, an old neighborhood and a high concentration of French businesses and what you have is an opportunity to have an unique French experience. One last note: Mondays are very slow here as the markets and many of the places that I have mentioned are closed, so keep in mind that Mondays are not the day to get the full Mouffetard experience..
If you have had an experience in The Mouffetard that you would like to share please do not hesitate. Thanks for reading.
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