If you are planning a trip to anyplace near Naples then check out hostelsofnaples.com or if you want to enhance your adventure in the authentic Italy, just reserve at Bella Capri and let them help you plan the rest of your trip when you get there.  The secrets of Ischia, the Limoncello of Sorrento and Amalfi and so many more surprises are waiting to be explored and introduced to you by the proud partners of Hostels of Naples.

During my travels I have met a lot of people doing odd jobs to supplement their income to keep themselves on the road.  In fact, the romance of hopping from place to place and finding this or that job was pretty exciting to me at one time.  I have done everything from washing dishes in Tel-Aviv to creating “atmosphere” in Joe’s Garage in Lagos Portugal.  Recently, with the new generation of tech and media savvy travelers I have met people blogging their way from hostel to hostel.  I ‘ve even met the @Twitchhiker who successfully made it half-way around the world by connecting with people on Twitter and depending on the kindness of strangers.  This type of travel is a long way from the times of yore when travelers packed up a Lonely Planet or Let’s Go and took to the rail to look for receptionist gigs in sketchy hostels and tout jobs for dive bars.  Sure, those jobs are still out there but there are a lot more ways to get around and even boost your resume and or portfolio in the process.

By far one of the most creative ways I have seen a group of travelers keep it going is happening right now with a team of four Korean filmmakers who are planning to stay abroad for the next year.  Equipped only with one laptop that is in use 24 hours, their creativity and a willingness to subsist, these four have already created some of the most exciting hostel videos out there and they have another eight or so months of traveling.  When Hojae was able to take a break to meet me for a coffee in Rome he told me that when they landed in Paris in October 2009 they really had not thought out the situation in detail.  In fact, they had not even made a video that they could pitch.  And judging from the initial video that they created in Paris, even though it shows skill, it is completely void a WOW factor that might excite a hostel owner to agree to a video for bed exchange before the video is delivered.  But Yellow Hostel in Rome gave them a shot and the gang hitchhiked from Paris to Rome and delivered a WOW video that would make any hostel owner proud (see video); oh, in case you are wondering Hojae told me that there was actually no spray paint involved in the video and that effect took a bit of time to create.   Obviously from this video their skill and creativity shine through.  I am especially impressed with how the video captures the essence and character of its subject.  After the Yellow video they have gotten a number of offers, including this video for Hostel Alessandro Palace in Rome,  but they still have a bunch of time left in their trip  and are looking to explore the rest of Europe.

Check out their Youtube page at www.youtube.com/user/pm35mm or website www.ingyeo.net.  Or maybe just drop them a line at pm35mm at hotmail dot com.

Jose Ramon Elizandro (Joserra) at Alona Berri

I am always nervous about ordering at a new restaurant.  Will it be good? Will my meal be best item on the menu?  My greatest fear is that I will choose poorly while one of my dining mates hits the deliciousness jackpot resulting in my stewing while they relish.  I call this feeling ‘food envy’, which for me manifests itself as an almost uncontrollable impulse to toss my plate aside and lunge at another’s food.  When eating out food envy always seems to be a possibility until you can find someplace where chefs execute scrumptious miniature gourmet morsels that are so cheap that it you don’t like them then there is no worry.  And if someone else has something better than you then you can easily have the same without breaking the bank.   I suppose, while I am dreaming, I would like for that place to be by the sea and have sandy beaches and a pumping nightlife.  Wait!  That place does exist!  Actually it is a whole city called San Sebastian in the Basque Country in Spain and it is a foodie paradise that is void of food envy.

While searching for worthwhile culinary adventure, on Twitter, I asked for suggestions about worthwhile destinations and promptly Linda Fox (@foxychops) suggested San Sebastian.  I quickly learned that San Sebastian has many quality restaurants in a small area and an extraordinary gusto for food.  Additionally, the city has large and clean sandy beaches, stunning vistas and a lively nightlife.  I still had some questions about activities so I emailed the San Sebastian Tourist Office and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that they were responsive and very helpful.  I was sold.

There is an old saying that says that ‘heaven is where all the cooks are Spanish.’ Growing up in an Italian family with a rich food culture I’d never have believed this, especially since my only experience with anything even remotely Spanish was a dish called Spanish rice, which I remember from my elementary school days as being pasty rice goop that could crawl down a wall.  However, I’ve since learned that this statement may be true, especially of the Basque Region.

A pinch of gastronomy that is arguably the base of Basque culture is the pintxo (‘peen-sho’) which is a variation of tapas common throughout Spain.  There is no strict definition for a pintxo – in fact there are too many varieties to even count – but the word means ‘spike’ because there is often a wooden spear skewing the bite sized snack.  Some places tally the bill by counting the toothpicks on your plate.  The accepted legend is that tapas / pintxos are the result of a 13^th Century law imposed by King Alfonso X either for health reasons or to prevent drunk driving.  Since then pintxos have become a key ingredient of the San Sebastian cultural palette.  This can be seen  nightly when the town’s streets fills up with people on  pintxos bar hop called a txikiteo (‘chickie-te-o’) that happens from about 7pm until the famously late Spanish dinner time that barely starts by 10pm.  Besides being fun, the txikiteo is one of those rare authentic cultural activities that is assessable to tourists.

The heart of the San Sebastian’s pintxos district is the Parte Viaja which the cobble stoned lined old town that is full of pubs and numerous taverns serving the local snacks that range from basic to gourmet and cost between €1.50 to €3.00 apiece.  Glasses of beer and wine run about the same price.  However, don’t limit yourself to the Parte Vieja because there are notable taverns all over the 180,000-person city.

Some notable restaurants:

Alona Berri-  Located in Gros, about a 20 minute walk from the Parte Viaja, this is one of the most famous pintxos restaurants in San Sebastian. Owned and run by Jose Ramon Elizandro, Joserra (pictured at top), who is a seasoned veteran of the San Sebastian food scene, this small restaurant needs to be on any txikiteo.  Alona Berri is much more posh and experimental as the tag-line “Alta cocina in Minitura” (upscale food in miniature) implies.  The service here was excellent and the food resembled a tasting menu at a chic restaurant. The only exceptions being the causal atmosphere and featherweight bill totaling €70.00 which included 15 pintxos, 2 glasses of wine, a bottle of wine and an after dinner drink.  One of the best price to quality restaurants that one could ever expect to experience.  Take your food and drink at the bar for a 7% discount or enjoy the excellent service sitting down and enjoying the spectrum of interesting and tasty miniature dishes.

Bar Gorriti-  At the edge of the Parte Vieja you’ll find this nondescript and very authentic tavern.  You might be tempted to only stick your head in, thinking that you’ll find something better down the road, which you might, but the great thing about a txikiteo is that you don’t have to commit more than €1.50 and 10 minutes.  Bar Gorriti has the same pinxtos found throughout the whole quarter but I found them among the largest that I saw.  Take a minute to peruse the pictures on the walls to see how the adjacent square, which used to be the main market that is now underground, has looked over the decades.

Bar Nestor-  Famous for its tortilla which is generally regarded the best in San Sebastian.  Don’t expect to just walk in and get a slice of this revered potato pie, you will have to plan ahead and possibly reserve a piece.  Tortillas are only served twice a day at 1:00 and 8:00pm.  Try stopping by at least 2 hours before hand if you do not just want to try your luck.

A Fuego Negro-  Right on 31 Augusto which is a main vein pumping through the Parte Vieja you’ll find this unique restaurant run by the next generation of pinxtos artists.  A Fuego Negro is an updated pintxos bar and restaurant which pushes the envelop both in terms of superbly executed pintxos mini soups such as tomato puree, mussels and béchamel and décor that is a refreshing contrast to traditional wooden interiors.

Ganderias-  No trip to Spain would be complete without indulging yourself in a big plate of jambon serrano (ham) and a steak.  Ganderias is a straightforward steakhouse that serves tender aged beef by the kilo so bring your appetite (i.e. skip the last three or so pinxtos).  Ganderias is very reasonably priced, especially considering the quality of meat.  We escaped with a bill of only €75.00, which included a mixed ham plate, kilo of steak, bottle of wine, bottled water and after dinner drink.  The portions were too big for one person and it was accepted, and perhaps even expected, that everything be split between at least two.

Gabriella our friendly cooking teacher from Tenedor Tours.

If you that want to bring your new found pintxos love home to impress your friends or just want to develop your cooking skills, I recommend the pintxos cooking classes run by Tenedor Tours.  Besides being a great way to spend an afternoon you learn how to make your own pintxos so that your Basque experience will live on.  Recommended by the San Sebastian Tourist Office, Tenedor is run by transplanted New Yorker Gabriella Ranelli de Aguirre.  The class is advertised as 3 hours long (ours lasted longer when you include eating time) and costs €125 per person which includes the lesson, food and wine.  Gabriella brings the group on a pretty solid walking tour to stores to buy and sample cheeses and meats while she shares her anecdotes that she has accumulated while living in San Sebastian for 10 years.  Besides the many useful cooking tips we learned, Gabriella focuses on pintxos made of common ingredients that can be easily made at home.  Our lesson included how to make six types of pintxos, homemade mayonnaise and gazpacho.  Groups are limited to about 8 and lessons are given in a super nice flat in the Parte Vieja that is fully equipped and spacious enough for the group to move about freely.  For a budget traveler €125 may be out of range but consider that food, wine and a unique experience is included.  We have recreated the recipes and utilized the cooking tips all with great success!

All the excitement of a complex yet assessable tasting menu, San Sebastian cuisine is the perfect  getaway from food envy that will satisfy any foodie.  As previously mentioned the Tourist Office is a huge help.  Even if you do not book online for the activities make sure that you stop by the office to get updated information and to book your activities such as sailing, a pintxos tour and of course the cooking class.  Walking tours also originate there for €6 and provide a decent city overview in terms of both the history and orientation.  San Sebastian is very popular with the Spanish so getting a room in high August season will be more challenging and expensive.  Moreover, because of its proximity to Pamplona many people use it as a base for their bull running excursion so plan a head for the first week in July.

Where to stay:

NH Aranzazu-  Good customer service, big and clean rooms and reasonably priced.  This hotel is a distance from the Parte Vieja and not practical to walk but the bus is close by and frequent and there is a beach with walking distance.  Cabs run about 6 – €8 depending on the time of day.  www.nh-hotels.com/NHAranzazu

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/09/16/san-sebastian-spain-a-foodie-paradise/feed/ 1 http://ikangaroo.com/2009/07/08/escape-to-ischia/ http://ikangaroo.com/2009/07/08/escape-to-ischia/#comments Wed, 08 Jul 2009 09:42:06 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1994 Even though Ischia is not as famous as its neighbor Capri, it is a beautiful island and worth a visit for its exciting activities, thermal spas, delicious food, hospitable people and pleasant atmosphere.

In the Gulf of Naples in 6 B.C the Emperor Augustus traded the island of Ischia for Capri.  This swap still resonates today as the island that gained Imperial favor, Capri, remains popular and the other, Ischia, continues to be fairly unknown.  In fact, if you were to ask someone from Ischia about Capri the response would most likely be that Capri is good for a day trip while staying on Ischia, which has so much more to offer.  Over the centuries Ischia has been ruled by occupying armies, countries, pirates and ruling families; however, in spite of its shaky political and natural history it remains faithful to its Greek and Italian roots.  Today the rocky island has a population of about 60,000 that is divided among five towns with the two largest being Ischia Town and Forio. Once on the island, Ischia Town has the most nightlife and shopping while the quieter Forio provides a quaint and relaxing atmosphere.

My wife and I spent four days during the end of May on this island that has remarkable beauty, warm days and crisp nights, whitewashed buildings with blue trim, great food, and friendly people that are proud of their history and island.  Our days were activity filled with swimming, driving the scooter around to the island’s attractions, hiking Mount Epomeo and soaking in the many hot springs while our evenings were spent relaxing and eating the local dishes. As two very independent travelers with vastly different requirements for a relaxing getaway, Ischia satisfied us both as it offers good and unique food plus plenty of activities.  And our enjoyment was compounded because our hosts delivered superior hospitality and a clean place to stay.  Ischia could be precisely what you need if traveling with friends, as a couple, with a family or if you are just looking for a quiet and easy to reach escape from a noisy city hopping grind.

Getting to and around Ischia:

We departed from Naples on a hydrofoil (€18 each way) and within a little over an hour we reached Forio, which is smaller than Iscia Town but with plenty to do and is easy to access the rest of the island. Rather than dealing with public transportation we rented a scooter for €25 per day as it allowed us to set our own schedule.  Although, with the windy roads, fast cars, faster scooters and hills a scooter is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced so a car rental might be a better option- they were not much more than the scooters.  In talking to other travelers we were told that the buses were timely, cheap and adequately got them around.

Where to stay:

We stayed at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is a Colella Family property.  Amerigo, one of the Colella sons, picked us up at the port, brought us to our apartment, recommend things to do on the island, arranged our scooter, transported to and from their restaurant and then finally dropped us off at the port.  From Papa Salvatore and Mama Tina to the three brothers Giuseppe, Amerigo and Lorenzo this clan delivers their promise of family hospitality and as a consequence they provide an authentic Italian experience. From cooking lessons with Mama Tina to learning how to make limoncello with Papa Salvatore to each of the brothers zooming between all their properties to look after the guests the Colella Family provides a truly unique opportunity to learn, rest and enjoy Ischia.

Depending on your preferences the Colellas have three different and distinct accommodation options.

A traditional hotel: Poggio del Sole is on the same land that Salvatore’s and Tina’s respective families owned before they married so in a way it is the land that grew the family.  Each room has its own bathroom and balcony with a sea view and some rooms even have a kitchenette and two balconies.  It is located just above the family restaurant La Casereccia so meals are an easy commute.  The hotel is a good choice if you are looking for a quite get-away.  Poggio del Sole is in a neighborhood that makes it impractical to walk to the port so if you stay here you will want to factor in transportation.

View from patio at Rotonda sul Mare

Apartments and rooms: We chose to stay at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is located on the sea and is a 20 minute stroll from Forio and even less to some bars (in the Italian sense) and restaurants.  Keep in mind that many European beaches are rocky but approximately 300 meters away there is a sandy beach.  From June to September a deck is set up so you can sunbathe right on the water and as of May 2009 there are plans to install a beach bar.  With a few levels of patios, the beautiful sunsets and easy water access we loved the location.  The interiors of the rooms are basic, but very clean and spacious. My wife normally prefers a luxurious feeling room but she found this very comfortable and I had no complaints.

The hostel: Ring hostel is a standard hostel that offers more atmosphere than amenities.  This is one of those places where if the walls could talk, goodness knows what they would say. But as luck would have it the walls do talk in that travelers have been using them as a guest book since Ring Hostel was opened in 2005.

The food: Forio had many tasty restaurants, but our experience was tainted due to one tourist trap.  To start positively, the hotel Poggio del Sole is connected to the family restaurant, La Casereccia, which everyone should try.  It has a traditional wood burning pizza oven and they serve many of their homemade products including Papa Salvatore’s limoncello and prune juice.  La Casereccia is a restaurant where you can “si mangia bene” and stay on budget.  One of the most outstanding dishes that we had was the octopus salad (insalata di polpo).  It is an Ischia specialty so it will be on the menu most places.  In Ischia this salad is prepared by adding some small cut-up octopi with oil, lemon and a few other garden ingredients that results in a simple and tasty appetizer.

Just down the beach from the La Rotonda sul Mar is a string of restaurants that all seem to be about the same.  We chose one at random and ended up being pleasantly surprised. The name is called L’Ancora and it is really not that much to look at but it does have an extension on the beach, which met our single criterion for that meal.  We ordered a frutti del mare pizza complete with octopus, mussels and anchovies and it was fresh and tasty while not being too fishy.  But the real treat was a bruschetta panino that they make with their homemade pizza dough.  I thought that I had seen all variations of the bruschetta but this was a stand out by being served on pizza dough. L’Ancora is a good bet for the restaurants along that strip.

Sometimes the problem with traveling off-season is that many of the places that heavily target tourists will not be opened or in full swing.  Indeed, the port of Forio on a Tuesday night at the end of May was pretty empty. Unfortunately we settled for the restaurant called La Romantica di Porto Francesco because it at least had a few other guests.  When we arrived the waiter seemed nice enough.  He recommended a decent bottle of Greco di Tufo (we found the table white wine on Ischia to be pretty poor) and walked us through the menu making a couple reasonable recommendations.  Then he pulled what I call an “off menu” stunt which is when a waiter suggests a “special dish” that is not on the menu, so there is no price. In this instance although we insisted we were not all that hungry the waiter heartily insisted that we had to try the specialty of the house. As seasoned travelers we know to ask the price – but didn’t as the waiter seemed pleasant and we were feeling comfortable.  In the end we paid as it was way too much food and had a price 2-3 times any other appetizer on the menu. We disputed the bill when it came but the waiter said we had agreed to it. Instead of making a scene we paid and left with another traveler rule more ingrained in our minds.  The lesson is always the same: insist on knowing the price before ordering and when you hear, “I have something special for you” or “don’t worry about it I will make you a special price” most likely you are about to get taken.  It is no surprise that this little scam and overcooked pasta ruined the evening; the wine was decent and a real steal at only 50% the price of the appetizer.

What to do: Hike to the top of the Island:  The hike to the top of Mount Epomeo is easy but strenuous. The hike took us about 45 minutes to an hour but the view from the top alone makes it worth the hike. The hike can get a bit hot so try to do it in the morning. It is strange to think hike and then automatically think food, but there are three places to eat along the way: one at the very bottom, another hidden in the woods about 25% of the way up and another at the very top.

Hunters' rabbit is an Ischia specialty

After the hike we stayed on the top for some cold water and a snack at the restaurant that looked like a mud hut but had, as you might imagine, an excellent view.  My wife sampled the bruschetta, which was a pile of tomatoes and basil bathed in tasty olive oil set on a garlicky half loaf of toasted Italian bread.  I went for the specialty of the region that I discovered while hiking up when I saw a few playful signs advertising coniglio alla cacciatore, translated hunter’s rabbit.  Fortunately, I ordered the coniglio because it was easily the best rabbit that I have ever eaten and among some of the best dishes that I have ever tasted.  It was served in a thick but not too heavy tomato sauce with roasted red bell peppers, onions, garlic along with some white wine, salt, pepper and a few family secrets.  For those that have not tried rabbit the taste is not particularly strong or gamey but has the taste of fowl dark meat with a texture of duck so it is not stringy like chicken.  However, in this recipe the rabbit is smothered in so much sauce that the natural flavor is in a supporting rather than starring role. The pasta dishes that we saw come out were also plentiful, actually enough for two.  Our bill totaled €39.00 with the €18.00 rabbit being the lion’s share of the bill with the bruschetta, salad and half liter of wine making up the difference.  It was an excellent meal and experience- highly recommended.

Negombo: One reason why Augustus decided to trade Ischia was because of the risk of severe volcanic activity was too great to invest building an imperial palace or even spending time there.  But it is exactly all of that activity that creates all of the thermal springs that makes Ischia such a find.  Negombo is a thermal bath park that is one of the best places that we have found while traveling.  We are not a sit on the beach type couple so we appreciated the opportunity to visit the 25 different thermal pools that the resort offers. With everything from hot and cold dips, to Turkish baths, to a variety of heated pools in addition to one of the nicest beaches we saw on Ischia, it is an excellent way for anyone to spend the day.

We spent an enjoyable day trying all of the pools, returning to the ones we liked best, eating lunch and swimming in the ocean. Our favorite was the water cascades that drop water from various heights that when you stand under the water stream it actually gives you a pretty thorough and effective massage. The cost of entry was €29 per person which might not be in everyone’s budget, but both of us felt that it was well worth it as we spent 6 hours jumping from pool to pool. If you decide to go – bring your own towel, a pair of shoes you don’t mind getting wet, and careful of the sun – all that jumping from pool to pool wipes off any sunscreen. Another note is that if you plan on going here to be sure and ask the reception at your hotel for discount coupons which will save you €3 per ticket.

Baia di Sorgeto: Nestled into a small bay and just off the beach are a few warm water pockets that are like hot tubs in the sea.  Also known for the mud that is dredged from around the area, which is used for an all-natural facial this is a worthwhile destination.  Baia di Sorgeto can be reached by bus, taxi, on your own, boat or water taxi from Sant’Angelo.  The rocky beach is not very comfortable but there are lounges to be rented for about €15 and the bar / restaurant is very reasonable.  The mud can be bought either by the jar, or when we were the bar was selling it by the mask.  At times this place can be infested with jellyfish thus making the pools inaccessible.  To avoid this have your hotel receptionist call La Sorgente, the bar / restaurant only meters away, and ask for a jellyfish report.  Phone number: 081.907837.  Nothing would be worse than traveling across Ischia to Baia di Sorgento only to descend the 200 something stairs and learn that the sparkling in the water is really sacs of stinging plasma.

Nitrodi: These sulfur springs have been in use since ancient Romans visited Ischia.  We stopped by and gave them a look but decided against going in because the whole area was not inviting plus the €9 frankly did not seem worth it.  We would recommend this if Baia di Sorgento is infested with jellyfish but on its own with a limited time or financial budget we recommend giving this a miss.

Sant’ Angelo: This fishing village is on the itinerary of every organized tour in Ischia.  The main draw is the beauty created by the isthmus- also a sandy beach- that connects the mainland to a small dot of land that is now covered with hotels.  Sant’ Angelo is great for walking around because they severely limit motor traffic all over town so you are not being constantly buzzed by cars and omnipresent scooters. There is a cluster of bars and cafés on the mainland that are not terribly expensive and there are a lot of shops, with typical tourist stuff in addition too some pretty fun boutiques.  We found that Sant’Angelo was perfect for a light lunch or drink but not worth spending an entire afternoon that is unless you are there for the beach.

After our four days on Ischia we were completely relaxed and recharged. Aside from the “off menu” incident, which could have taken place anywhere, Ischia was a very worthwhile destination.  We felt that we could have stayed a couple more days so now we just have to figure out how to go back!

Where to stay: The Colella Family www.hotelpoggiodelsole.it  or for Ring Hostel www.ringhostel.com  They waill also be able to set up the apartment or room rental at Rotona sul Mar.

Where to eat: At the top of Mount Epomeo, La Casereccia (The Colella Family
restaurant)

Food and drink: Coniglio della Cacciatore; Rucolino is the local liqueur made out of arugula and tastes like Jagermeister; octopus salad; paccheri pasta (large round tubes) with mussels and pecorino.

Where to go: Negombo, Baia di Sorgeto, Sant’ Angelo, Mount Epomeo

Cooking classes: Contact La Casereccia www.lacasereccia.com to inquire about cooking classes and other classes that the Colella Family provides.

When to go: The busy, busy season is in August when the island is full of Europeans.  April – June and Sept – October will still have great weather but Ischia will be quieter.  The benefit of going during the busy season is that everything will be open and there will be a lot more nightlife options.  However, we are more early and late season travelers so we did not mind the fewer options in exchange for no crowds.  While Ischia may be fairly untrodden by English speaking travelers it is not a secret to Germans and Asians so expect to share the island with them no matter when you decide to visit.

St. Christopher's Inn London Bridge hostel - The Village dorm-cam

It was not that long ago that a trip abroad meant disconnecting with friends and family while you found yourself and figured things out.  Then getting away became a little more difficult when along came the internet, digital cameras, Skype, Facebook and now web cams in hostel dorm rooms.  Yes that’s right, St. Christopher’s Inn the London based hostel chain with locations throughout Britain and Europe has installed a dorm-cam into a 14 bed dorm room so the goings on of consenting hostel guests can be monitored 24 hours a day by just about anyone with an internet connection.

According to Murray Roberts, Group Sales and Marketing Director, “There’s nothing out there like this and in the test runs so far, our travelers are loving it. It’s being used to wave at Mums and Dads on the opposite side of the world, celebrate birthday parties happening thousands of miles away and for catching up with friends who are hanging around our other web-cams.”

Interacting with the dorm dwellers isn’t far away either and soon viewers will be able to send the residents free beer for all the fun stuff they do and sound off fog horns in response to the not so popular antics!

Yes, the guests do know about the web-cam as St. Christopher’s has just launched a new booking policy to insure that everyone is up to speed on what is going on.

If you are interested in tuning in to St. Christopher’s new dormcam just visit wwww.stchristopherslive.com.  There is a sign in after viewing for one minute.

The Owl Trail guides you to 22 of Dijon's best sites in the city center.

By Sarah–

Dijon is only an hour and forty minutes from Paris and is a great respite from the busy city.  This city that was once a rich capital of art and culture has plenty to do and see and without the expensive price tags of Paris.We left Paris Wednesday morning and took the train out of Gare de Lyon straight into Dijon. The tickets were purchased the day of the trip, although we could have possibly found them a bit less expensive had we planned further in advance. When we first started to look we found one way tickets for just over 30 euros. That makes the transport around 60, although as I stated for the day off we ended up paying 90 euros round trip per person.

As for accommodation, we found Dijon-rentahome.com lists many quality apartments throughout Dijon. We selected a two bedroom on Rue Verrerie and found the location to be perfect. The apartment was extremely comfortable and affordable. It is well equipped with everything you need for a few days to a few weeks. For the four nights we ended up paying 440. The owners Beatrice and Max have created a wonderful atmosphere and are a great source for local information.  The neighborhood was central and rich with a lot of fun discoveries such as a wonderful boulangerie and numerous shops. The street where our apartment was located is called L’Bout d’la Rue (52, rue Verrerie, 03.80.71.37.92) which had a lovely mussels restaurant (yes nothing but mussels in many varieties of sauce).  We tried the crepe restaurant across the street, but believe it or now we needed reservations and it was booked.  Finally, although we did not try it, around the corner looks to be an interesting cooking school named Atelier des Chefs.com. The cooking school will do courses in English and seem very accommodating.

When we arrived in Dijon we made a quick stop at the helpful Tourist Office and tried a place called Le Concorde.  Located at 2, Place Darcy this typical French brasserie that is perfect for a drink and bathroom stop.  We weren’t hungry so we didn’t sample the food but if you are hungry the plate of the day always comes recommended. The day we were there it was roast beef and mashed potatoes for only 9 euro!  A steal.

There is a plenty to do in Dijon. We found the city planned tour where you follow a path marked by the city good luck charm, the owl, with an accompanying book. The tour takes you around the city with local history and interesting facts.  We slowly walked along the clearly marked path with a few stops into churches and cafes and had a pleasant afternoon. Well worth your time is a visit to this hat shop which was amazing to all of us – Chapellerie Bruyas (65, rue des Godrans, 21000 Dijon, 0380304923). You should also visit the Boutique Maille at 32 rue de la Liberté.  Maille is the famous mustard brand that comes from Dijon and as you would expect they have a pretty nice shop set up displaying all the history of the brand and plenty of opportunities to buy specialized mustard jars and other accessories.

Worth your time is a day trip out to Beaune. We took a train around 11h, returning at 16h. The town is a quaint, picturesque, small town France at its best – once you are inside the walls. We walked the town, visited the wine museum and did a great lunch. If you are a fan of wine this is town for you. Tons of tasting locations and, if a bit rustic, an interesting wine museum. For the approximate 6 euros entry you find out all kind of remarkable facts. If you are not a huge wine enthusiast we would recommend you skip it. Towards the end of the tour we did lunch at Le Galion (5 place Ziem, 21200 Beaune, 03.80.22.65.21). We had salad with warmed camembert, tuna tartar salad, and beef bourgogne. It was a beautiful tranquil square, tasty marvelously presented food for a variety of pallets, and helpful wait staff. If you visit walk the town, check out the ramparts and go to a few of the wine tasting establishments.

In Dijon, we sampled some good restaurants but highly recommend a visit to the local market called Les Halles. It runs Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday and is a spectacle of French cuisine. The architecture of the building is interesting as it was designed by Gustave Eiffel.  For lunch (and unplanned dinner) we purchased pungent cheeses, wonderful pates, sausage, fresh fruit, veggies (asparagus of the woods which was a discovery for us) and a few bottles of wine (a great wine shop is La Carte des Vins, 1 rue Musette, 21000 Dijon, 0380304501, www.achat-dijon.com).

If you do not have the space for eating your own purchases or just want a night out try a walk down Rue Admiral Roussin. There are 4-5 different restaurants that are good and you can’t make a wrong choice, from Italian to crepes to local French food. We tried the Italian restaurant and Le Petit Roi de la Lune (28, rue Admiral Roussin, Dijon, 0380498993). All of the choices were excellent and the service helpful.

One of the highlights of the trip was a tour of the region provided by Max (owner of the apartment). We visited a number of wineries, received personal tours and tutelage about the region, ate a typically delicious Burgundian meal and ended with a short tour of the canals where Beatrice and Max call home. Although not ready to rent when we were there was a barge docked near their home. If you want to do the Burgundy area at a leisurely pace you might also think about renting it out for a short stay.

All in all our visit to Dijon was excellent. The weather turn out perfectly, we walked a ton and then made up for it by eating and drinking the local specialties!

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/06/22/dijon-get-a-way/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2009/06/16/unabellavista-italy-radio-show-podcasts-and-deliciousness/ http://ikangaroo.com/2009/06/16/unabellavista-italy-radio-show-podcasts-and-deliciousness/#comments Wed, 17 Jun 2009 01:13:48 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1775 As previously mentioned Unabellavista’s Anthony Capozzoli in now hosting his own radio show titled, How to Tour Italy. In this hour long show Anthony interviews guests that highlight all the greatness of Italian culture like its food, art and wine plus tips on how to get to Italy and how to travel once you’ve arrived. Hear the show live on Thursdays from 11:00 – 12:00 Central Standard Time (USA) on TalkZone.com, but if you miss it don’t worry because all segments can be downloaded on iTunes to find them there just search “Unabellavista” and they’ll come right up.

As of this update on June 16, 2009 iKangaroo would like to congratulate Anthony on his How to Tour Italy project.  So far he has been churning out helpful videos about everything from how to use the automated ticket machine to buy a train ticket to the history of the Pantheon on his Youtube channel.  Also, his weekly radio show has been hitting the top 10 on the iTunes store under Travel and Places.

This week, June 17, 2009 I will be on the show to talk about and promote iKangaroo’s new free podcasts for Angels & Demons, which can also be found on the iTunes Store.

How to Tour Italy aired for the 1st time on January 22, 2009 and Anthony has done an excellent job of creating some very fun and useful segments as can be attested by the podcasts doing so well on the iTunes Store.  Tune in this Thursday June, 18 at 12:00 CDT to hear Anthony broadcast from Florence Italy with lots of tips and details that will help you know exactly How to tour Italy.  And of course, I’ll be on too.

For your weekly dose of Italy be sure to tune in or download How to Tour Italy with Anthony Capozzoli on TalkZone.com.

A common scenario that I discovered goes like this: a traveler books a bed online for €25 which they lock into for 3 days, totaling €75.  Another traveler rolls up to the hostel without booking, and because there is vacancy the price is dropped to €16 per night so her three night stay costs €48 or €27 less for the same accommodation. Then these two travelers chat over a beer and one learns that they paid 30% more, which they take up with the hostel who won’t adjust the price leaving the traveler feeling unsatisfied with the hostel.  There is an opposite scenario in which the traveler does not book online and she rolls up to find vacancy and she gets stuck paying a lot more for an alternate accommodation.  With a little thought this situation is easy enough to navigate thus putting yourself in the best situation and most likely saving some money.

Here is what to think about to decide if you should book or not.

1. The time of the year: High season in Europe is between late May and August when the majority of students and recent graduates are traveling for the summer.  March to May and Sept to October fluctuates from dead to slamming.  November to February with the exception of Christmas and New Years, depending on the city, is usually the most quite time of the year.  Of course this scenario is flipped for places that thrive in the winter such as ski towns.
2. The time of the week: I know that when you are on the road for a month that everyday is Friday, but weekends need to be considered as they are busier because study abroad students travel more on weekends; hotels have less capacity thus giving budget travelers fewer options; people like to stay put for a weekend thus resulting in fewer beds because of less turnover.
3. The city: Some cities are just more busy than others.  Plus, in major cities there is a chance that a convention, concert, holiday or sporting event could fill room capacity which will again shove more budget travelers to hostels.
4. How popular is the hostel:  The more popular a hostel the more likely it is to be booked, but don’t take this for granted.  I suggest going to www.hostelworld.com and www.hostelbookers.com to read the most recent reviews.  Also, ask around when you are on the road (i.e. receptionists, tour guides, other travelers, etc) because you will get a more candid picture from someone who has stayed there rather than online reviews.  Its for this reason why keeping your options open is more desirable because there would be nothing worse than booking a lemon hostel three months prior  only to find out that two blocks away is currently the funnest hostel in Europe.
5. Hostel capacity: Size matters!  A lot of great hostels have reputations that are far larger than their capacity.  Examples of this are Mambo Tango in Barcelona and The Beehive in Rome, which have great and well deserved reputations but not a lot of beds.  Other hostels like The Pink Palace, Balmer”s and the Generator are massive.
6. Type of room needed (dorm, single, quad): Along with size, most hostels will only have a few doubles, triples or quads so they will be harder to get without booking.
7. Number of spaces needed: How many people are you traveling with?  Of course single travelers will have an easier time than a group of 6 or more.
8. Your risk tolerance: Can you take not knowing?  Are you flexible?  That is for you to decide.

Back of the napkin calculation that could save you money if you book when you don't need to.

Full disclosure, iKangaroo uses hostelworld.com as the booking engine on this site.

Okay, from here you may have decided to book a hostel.  Great!  But now which booking system to use?  All are basically the same in terms of providing a secure and reliable reservation.  Between HostelWorld.com (HW) and HostelBookers.com (HB) it is hard to tell a difference except that HB does not charge a booking fee and HB has a more detailed rating system of each of its properties.  Hostelworld is a much bigger organization and is the market leader and as such hostels commonly allocate them more beds, which means a better chance of getting a booking and a wider selection.  But wait, not so fast, shop around because one site may have a better deal than another.

Three Examples:

1. Oops Hostel in Paris, a new and well located hostel that is becoming more popular.  I did a search for May 25, 2009 (two months in advance, high season, popular city and hostel) for one person for 7 nights and the best deal I got was through HostelBookers and the Oops website, with HW coming in €8.50 more expensive total.
2. Home Hostel in Valencia Spain for May 25, 2009 for 7 nights (two months in advance, high season, less popular city, popular hostel).  I found capacity on each website for a number of dorm rooms.  At this place HostelBookers had the best prices on 12 and 16 person dorms at €11.20 compared to €13 on HostelWorld, which when the €1.50 HW service charge is factored in turned out to be €14 more expensive.  Surprisingly Likeathome.com was more expensive again.
3. One last example to show that HW is not always more expensive and that it behooves you to shop around is Balmer’s Herberge in Interlaken Switzerland.  Balmer’s is one of Europe’s anchor hostels that has maintained a good reputation over the years. Again a search showed that HW was more expensive on the dorm rooms, but it was much less expensive for private and smaller rooms by at least 30%.  Since the Balmer’s website is supported by Hostelworld, which is common, the website had the same prices as Hostelworld.

If you decide to book it is in your best interest to shop around. As you can see prices vary.

The current economy is presenting some great bargins for everyone, including for budget travelers.  Over the past 10 years websites like hostelworld.com and hostelbookers have been instrumental in helping the idustry grow and they continue to do a great job of serving hostels and travelers, but right now it is in your best interest to shop around and possibly just try show up in a city to get the best deal.  That is how they did it in the 90’s and it worked just fine with a lot fewer beds.

And here they are:

Hoscar Award winners for top hostels world-wide as awarded by Hostelworld.com

highlight indicates that hostel was top 10 for last two years

This year saw the emergence of 8 new hostels with a very strong showing by Lisbon, Portugal which has four hostels present, as opposed to only one from last year, including the Top Hostel Traveller’s House.  Krakow Poland, another hot new spot, had two represented.  This year Beijing China made the list at number 5 with Sitting in the City Walls Courtyard House.

Hostelworld.com is an internet booking engine that has done a lot on the last 8 or so years to help hostels grow and enable travelers find better accomodations.  Before Hostelworld.com travelers who arrived in a major city after 10:00 am were at the mercy of “Tourist Clerks” which is basically a person who waits in a train station that tries to send people to this or that hotel for commission.  In terms of a hotel or hostel owner Hostelworld.com has provided the ability to make reservations which belive it or not wasn’t around to any great consequence until Hostelworld.com.  After booking a hostel with Hostelworld.com and staying at that hostel travelers are sent a brief survey (it takes only two minutes) which rates a hostel’s character, location, staff, security, fun and cleanliness.  In 2008 Hostelworld says that it recieved over 800,000 results to this survey which it number crunches to determine the top hostels for it’s Hoscar Award Ceremony that it holds in Dublin it’s home.

If you book through Hostelworld.com I encourage you to fill out the survey as it is very useful to other travelers and it helps the hostels serve you better.

Happy Travels,

Chris

By Chris

Rue Mouffetard in Paris’ 5th arrondissement is the definition of the beaten path.  It does not have undiscovered nooks with kindly shop-keepers who serve up surprisingly delicious food or have piles of rare antiques with that certain something that you have been searching the world over.  Instead it is a touristic production line that churns through 1000s of visitors in its countless bistros, restaurants, bars, pubs and sidewalk cafes. To the uninformed and travel elitist it is merely a Left Bank cliche full of indifferent service, mediocre food and cheap souvenirs.  However, if you’re able to accept, as my recent tour guide Alex said, that “you are a tourist” than you’ll find that rue Mouffetard is an exceptional opportunity to enjoy Paris on a budget.  It certainly has some good finds and overall great deals set in a bustling neighborhood that was born in Roman times close to 2000 years ago. A walk from the top of Mouffetard to the bottom will give you ample opportunity to take in small fun cafes and inexpensive restaurants.  Here are some I want to share.

Let’s start our exploration at the top of Mouffetard at 39 rue Descartes which is just above Mouffetard and close to the Pantheon, where Fucoult’s Pendulum is located.  In the 1920’s a poor and unknown Earnest Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, lived in this building in a small third floor cold-water walk-up.  Today there is a plaque just under a canopy for a restaurant named La Maison de la Verlaine that informs passers by that Hemingway lived there from 1921-25.  We ate a Sunday lunch there that included two fixed menus plus wine which totaled close to 50€.  I had the frog legs with pomme frites which I thought were average (you never really want average frog legs) and overall we didn’t think the place or food were remarkable.

Down the street about 200 meters is Place de la Contrescarpe which is surrounded by some typical Parisian cafes and pubs– among them is Cafe Delmas, formerly Cafe des Armateurs which Hemingway called the cesspool of Mouffetard which now is now is nice but somewhat corporate –  that occupy prime real estate for people watching, grabbing a drink and enjoying this classic square.  Any of the cafes offer a similar experience and all are quite pricey relative to their neighbors just a few dozen meters away in any direction.  Nevertheless, they are less expensive alternatives, if not as fashionable, to their counterparts on the Champs or in Saint Germain, and all have the added benefit of very limited motor traffic therefore less noise.

As you are walking through this area you will probably notice lot’s of signs advertising Happy Hour at the scores of bars in the area– funny enough: the French wanted to get rid of the term ‘week-end’ because it is English but ‘happy hour’ seems to be going strong.  Generally happy hours in Paris are from 17:00 (5 pm) to 20:00, sometimes as late as 22:00, and drink prices are heavily discounted as much as 50%. Mouffetard has some of the best (i.e. cheapest) happy hours in Paris.  Here are two pub selections: one chosen for its comfortable atmosphere and inexpensive drinks and the other for its history.  PUB #1, The Fifth Bar located at number 62. This dive is a neighborhood hangout / college pub that offers the cheapest happy hour pints in the area, and I would guess Paris, for only €2.50.  The Fifth Bar also has free English newspapers and magazines, a friendly bar staff, beer-pong tournaments and the whole place seems to be set-up to meet people.  It is a good choice for groups, lone travelers, everyone sticking to a budget, and they will show the match / game (NFL, Soccer, Rugby) if you ask.  Happy hour ends at 21:00 (9pm) with drink specials all night on Thursdays.  PUB #2, Roadhouse le Vieux Chene at number 69. Not as cheap as Fifth Bar but it still has worthwhile happy hour deals ranging from €3.50 Stellas to €6.00 cocktails.  The interior is clean rustic, which means that it is designed to look like an old roadhouse.  I have been there a couple of times and the bar staff has always been friendly.  To me the history of a place is always a big draw and this pub has the distinction of being in a location that has been selling wine since the late 1500s as explained on the historical marker just to the left of the entrance.

Now to eat. Paris has a variety of crepe and sandwich stands.  From shoddy set-ups in the back of trucks to take away (emporter) windows in established restaurants these French stuffed pancakes can be an inexpensive and filling meal.  I am not a crepe connoisseur and historically I thought that all crepes are pretty similar, however, as I have experienced on Mouffetard this simply is not the case.  AU P’TIT GREC at number 66 seems to be an institution as evidenced by all the people migrate there leaving adjacent crepe shops empty.  I have tried these crepes which are made by a Greek family from Thessaloniki and I was impressed. Their crepes are the most interesting I have eaten in that the proprietors instill their Greek heritage by mixing in some feta with the usual ingredients.  It’s worth the wait and prices are right in line with the competition at €3 to €4.50 so they seem to be winning this crepe war based solely on their superior product.

For more of a sit down experience try Le Mouff’tot Mouff’tard at number 73.  In terms of the food it was above average- not outstanding, but good–, yet when the cost of about €40 per person including wine (wine there- table wine anyways- is cheap (€9 per 50cl), a rarity in Paris) is factored in this restaurant becomes a good choice.  When I ate there pushed the upward price bounds (i.e. the most expensive menu and numerous carafes wine) and the price was still reasonable.  The owner and his wait staff were very attentive and I was particularly impressed that when I left something there and returned a week later that they had remembered me and were happy to return my property.  This is no Michelin star property but it came recommended by some people in the neighborhood and it met my expectations as a decent place with good food at a reasonable price.

A classic French brasserie that I like a lot is called Le Mouffetard at 116.  From its appearance this is a cliche French brassiere, a possibly a tourist trap, because of its ornate trimmings, colorful vintage French advertising posters and zinc bar.  Yet, I have found this restaurant to be friendly, if you take your drink at the bar it is cheap and the food is good.  One of my favorite meals there was a cheesy, potato and bacon dish called tartiflette (€11 including a small salad) which was served in an individual baking dish so you know that it was baked fresh as opposed to just reheated and slapped on a plate.  Tartiflette comes from the mountain region in France and it an excellent and hardy meal for one of those cold and damp Parisian winter days.

Another restaurant that was recommended by locals is called La Salle a Manger at 138, specializing in salads and tartines, located in the market area at the end of the rue. They are only open for breakfast, lunch and brunch.  I had a salad that was big enough for two and was a nice break from the more traditional French fare.  The prices are very affordable to the budget conscious and this restaurant is also nice because of its outdoor seating amidst the hustle and bustle of the market- if you are into that type of thing.

For a little more of an elegant affair or perhaps a glass of wine try Cave La Bourgogne at 144.  This is another classic French brasserie but what I find most interesting is that it is decorated with vintage pictures of the area.  I always like these places and tremendously enjoy the pictures of people doing the exact some thing in the same place but 50 years or so ago.  Cave La Bourgogne is perfect for a cup of coffee €1.20 or a glass of wine €3.00 and it also has a nice terrace with excellent people watching values. For a quick lunch or a snack they have a great country platter (cheese, meat and vegetables served on a wooden cutting board), which will run about €10.00.

Last and my favorite of the lot is Cafe Lea which is located off the bottom of Mouffetard at 5 Claude-Bernard.  This cafe is popular with the work crowd so if you want to lunch here either arrive early around noon or after 14:00 when the work crowd has dissipated but you then run the risk of not getting the best menu items as they will have assuredly sold out for the day.  The menu is ever changing and consists of variations on classic French dishes.  Entrees run around €15 and you can expect to drop ~€25 per person if you want to do the whole French lunch (i.e. entree, desert, wine and cafe), which is a good deal considering the quality food you are getting in Cafe Lea’s fun and fresh atmosphere.  The service is efficent, polite and consistent.  With that said, they do a booming lunch business and understand that table turn-over equals increased revenues so be prepared for this or try timing your lunch a bit later at around 14:00 as most French will be winding down and going back to work.

Now to wrap up with a great coffee.  My personal favorite both for the €1.00 price-tag and quality of coffee is called Brulerie des Ternes at number 111.  This cafe, and I use the term loosely, is nothing more than a coffee purveyor with a couple of seats and four standing tables.  The coffee is strong and the view is good so for a quick cafe break this place would be hard to beat, especially on a nice day.

Okay now that you are sold on how great the 5th is you probably want to know where to stay.  Sure there are lots of hotels in the area and I hope that people will give me some feedback about which they have enjoyed for now all I have is the hostel called Young and Happy at number 80 rue Moufftard.  In terms of location this hostel is hard to beat and generally it is everything a backpacker expects in a youth hostel (i.e. bunk beds, shared bathrooms and somewhat cramped quarters).  The prices are right in line with other Parisian hostels.  The feedback that I have gotten about Y&H has been positive but it has been mentioned by some backpackers I chatted with who were staying there wished it has more social space.  However, I spoke with the manager, Charles, and they are in the middle of a renovation so look for more chatting-up space in 2009.

Rue Moufftard may be a heavily touristic area but it is far from a tourist trap if you know where to go.  Mix  tourists in with French students, an old neighborhood and a high concentration of French businesses and what you have is an opportunity to have an unique French experience.  One last note: Mondays are very slow here as the markets and many of the places that I have mentioned are closed, so keep in mind that Mondays are not the day to get the full Mouffetard experience..

If you have had an experience in The Mouffetard that you would like to share please do not hesitate.  Thanks for reading.

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