Stonehenge was high on my list of things to see and I am satisfied with the experience, but I did not have expectations of 30 meter high stones that I would be able to walk freely around and through.  In fact, the highest stone is about 7.5 meters (25 ft) and the monument is roped off so the closest that one can get it about 25 meters (100 or so feet) from the stones.  The £6.50 admission fee (included with most tours) includes an audio guide that does its best to put whatever guesses the experts have about the artifact into context.

Stonehenge is a good experience and recommended for Druids, major history enthusiasts with great imaginations who are not looking for concrete rock solid answers, and people with some time to kill in London who are looking to see the beautiful English countryside.  It is not recommended for people who have limited time in London, people who will be disappointed with only 25ft high stones, and all others who have used the words ‘underwhelming’, ‘overrated’ or ‘boring’ to describe the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Parthenon, Tower of London and or the Roman Forum.

How to get there:

Train is an option but the logistics are a bit complicated.  Probably the easiest way to see the Hanging Rocks is to go with one of the numerous tour companies.  There are a number of tours that either swing by Stonehenge after Windsor Castle and before Bath (approx £65) or go directly there and back (£25 and includes admission).  No matter how you try to do it you are looking at a minimum of 6 hours to get there, see it, and get back.

Salmon and mussel starter from L'Amie Jean

By Sarah— Living in a great city like Paris we often receive the questions:  where do you recommend us going to eat?  which are your favorite places?  Looking back on the last two years and all the delicious meals we’ve eaten, sublime wine we’ve sipped and fantastic atmospheres we’ve enjoyed we have acquired quite a lengthy list of worthwhile places. So here we have our favorites, not necessarily the best in all of Paris, but definitely the locations we frequent.  This list is composed of  the places we have found to be the most interesting, most consistent and best value for the Euro that we have experienced… so far.

After no more ado, here are our Paris favorites arranged from most to least expensive.

L’Amie Jean: Not overly expensive but not cheap either, this little French bistro delivers a quality and authentic dining experience.  The chef Stephane Jego subscribes to idea that haute cusine does not have to be a budget breaker.  The menu focuses on traditional French cooking but Stephane dishes it out in a new and inventive way.  If you are looking for good French food with an interesting twist, we highly recommend this place. Expect the bill to tally around €120 (for two) with a decent bottle of wine and after dinner drinks. A reservation is required.

Monjul: A meal here will run around €110 for two including wine, but the Asian + French fusion warrants the price. This is one of my favorite restaurants not only because I have enjoyed many meals here but because of the, “this is the best meal ever!” comments that our guests make.  My only complaint is that they change their menu infrequently so I tend not to back as often as I would like to. Each dish is unique and interesting in ways even a hardened foodie will find interesting,  with such delectable treats as the silly sounding, yet scrumptious, porky-snacky they have so many things right that they do not need to change their menu often. Recommendations necessary.

Le Comptoir de Relais: Classic sidewalk cafe in the heart of Sant Germain des Pris, which is an area that is great for people watching and relaxing.  Perfect for an afternoon of eating traditional French pates, cheeses and meats while enjoying one of Paris’ most famous neighborhoods without the hefty price-tags of the more famous Cafés just down the street.

Au Sergent Recruteur: All you can eat: Mid-priced classic French country cooking (and a lot of it). We were a bit hesitant to go here the first time, but it was a fun experience. If you have a good group of people and like to not worry about running up the bill with wine then we fully recommend this rustic food barn reminiscent of what you might expect to find in the French countryside after a long carriage ride in the 19th Century.  The food is hearty and plentiful meal starts with a huge basket of fresh veggies and a tasty vinaigrette.  That segways into an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord board of meats, salamis and pates. Wait!  There’s more!  Then there is the main course which is followed by a board of cheeses.  Oh, did I mention that limitless wine is included?  Sure you will be hard pressed to find a Frenchman in here but this place is perfect for getting a good meal and not worrying about running up the bill as the cost is €47 per person without any “surprises” at the end.  Reservations should be made but you can often get a table without.

Bacon and chevre salad from Chez Gladine runs less than €8

Chez Gladine: Cheap, Basque, Lively. In Buttes aux Cailles, this off-the-beaten tourist-path bistro is at maximum capacity every night with French students.  If you arrive any later than 8:00 be prepared for a 30 plus minute wait outside.  But don’t worry, push your way to the bar and order a bottle of wine or beer and enjoy the party outside.  Even though it seems chaotic the staff is friendly (they do speak enough English to put your name on the list and make recommendations), yet efficient at handling the volume of people.  The food is good and basic and there is a lot of dishes so you can’t go wrong. The salads are huge, the duck is delish, and the gateaux basque is sweet.  Don’t be intimidated by the wait or the chaos.  Chez Gladine is a great experience.

Le Pot de Terre: Cheap, French, Touristic. If you are a foodie – don’t bother with this place; however, if you in the mood for decent food without a hefty price tag, then give it a shot. This is a no fuss, no muss restaurant that some would consider very touristy but there are also always a lot of French customers as well.   We always leave satisfied. No reservations necessary.

Au’Petit Grec: Cheap as it can be, Creperie,  Standing room only. On Rue Mouffetard, you can’t miss Au’Petit Grec because it almost always has a line even if the other adjacent creperies are vacant of even a single customer.  The most interesting crepe place we have found which serves up the French staple with a Greek twist.  I like to get here at least once every two weeks for Friday night dinner.  My favorites are the tarama, feta, olives with tomato and lettuce, the bolognese, and the savoyarde. All around good and copious food.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2010/04/22/paris-a-locals-food-picks/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/12/history-of-valentines-day/ http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/12/history-of-valentines-day/#comments Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:23:45 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=2221

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/12/history-of-valentines-day/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/02/france-its-groundhog-day-no-its-jour-des-crepes/ http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/02/france-its-groundhog-day-no-its-jour-des-crepes/#comments Tue, 02 Feb 2010 15:18:54 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=2197

If you are planning a trip to anyplace near Naples then check out hostelsofnaples.com or if you want to enhance your adventure in the authentic Italy, just reserve at Bella Capri and let them help you plan the rest of your trip when you get there.  The secrets of Ischia, the Limoncello of Sorrento and Amalfi and so many more surprises are waiting to be explored and introduced to you by the proud partners of Hostels of Naples.

I’m nominating Spain as the SNACK CAPITAL of the WORLD.  So with Madrid being Spain’s capital it has a lot of gastronomy to live up to, which it certainly does. I have come to understand that the Spanish, no matter what region, consistently, confidently and effortlessly serve-up bite-sized scrumptiousness.   Snacks that stretch the imagination of how food can taste and be presented.  A grazing session through Madrid teaches us all that snacks at the bar can be a cornucopia of morsels, flavors and textures and there is no need to ever sit down for a meal.

While arranging a short visit to Madrid I put out the word on Twitter and asked for some restaurant recommendations.  I did get a few, but strangely I was not told about a specific place.  It was always, “oh I ate at a great place right near Plaza Mayor, but I cannot remember the name” and similar comments.  Now I know why this is: Madrid, like so much of Spain, “is” a restaurant.  It is a sprawling food court of cervecerias, siderias and just plain good ol’ tapas bars.  To fully enjoy this experience you should first change your way of thinking to not look for someplace to eat but rather anyplace that has food in those ubiquitous glass bar cases.  Pop in, have a bite and a drink, if you like it then order another and if not then move on.

Here are a few places and tapas that we enjoyed a lot:

Sidrería El Tigre, Calle de las Infantas, 30, 28004 Madrid, Spain

A very rustic and basic tapas bar complete with a mounted boar’s, typical rock walls and wooden beam ceiling.  Before deciding to finally try it I had passed by a couple of times and always noticed that it was crowded.  To look at the interior I could not really understand why and then I ordered a beer, glass of wine and some tapas that totaled a whopping €4.00.  After paying I took another look around and it dawned on me that this is seems to be a university hang-out, judging by the clientele.  Even though this bar was crowded I was very impressed by the efficiency of the barmen.  There is nothing worse then being ignored at a bar and this was not the case here.  The tapas are not gourmet but the bustling atmosphere and price are hard to beat.

Mercado de la Reina, Calle Gran Vía, 12, 28013 Madrid, Spain

Modern and more upscale this tapas bar and restaurant draws a more buttoned-up after work crowd rather than the t-shirted after class patrons at El Tigre but it is still casual.  Just as the atmosphere is slick so are the tapas which are too many to review but I will say that the potato tortilla here is perhaps the best I have ever had.  If you only have the tortilla here that is served all day this bar is worth it.  Another tapa that I had here, which is common in Spain, was a portion of Padrón peppers.  The green peppers are roasted and then dressed with a bit of olive oil and salt.  But the fun of this tapa is not in the taste but in the thrill.  You see, mostly these peppers are sweet but sometimes they are super duper spicy.  So eating a plate is like playing Spanish Roulette.

Mercado de San Miguel, Plaza de Oriente, 3, 28013 Madrid, Spain

Not a restaurant like Mercado de la Reina but actually a market.  This newly remodeled glass and steel structure houses over 30 stalls that sell fish, meats, books, pastries, wine and beer among a lot of other goods.  There are tables set up or you can just gnash your way through.  We enjoyed buying a glass of champagne and walking with it to sample this and that around the market.

Lizarran, Calle del Prado 4, 28014 Madrid, Spain‎

There are a few of these in Madrid so if you are not into the ‘franchise’ thing you may want to give this a miss.  With that said, I am a sucker for a pinchos restaurant and this place holds its own.  As you would expect at any pinchos bar there are a number of interesting looking and tasty bits served on little slices of bread.  All you have to do is lift up the glass case and choose one.  Keep the toothpicks on your plate so the barman can tally your bill.

Cerveceria Alemana, Plaza de Santa Ana, 6, 28012 Madrid, Spain

Apparently a Hemingway favorite but we had no idea when we visited this typical bar off Plaza de Santa Ana.  This seems and looks like one of those traditional places that women were not allowed into until laws were passed.  The bar was tended by someone who may have actually served Hemingway and the ground was covered with discarded napkins.  Walking into here was like going back 50 or so years, except that it is one of the few places in Madrid that is smoke-free.  Just judging by the location, decor and staff it is obvious that it is an institution and perhaps a tourist trap.  However, we did not find this to be the case in the least.  The prices are clearly marked, the staff was super friendly and the bill was right in line with other prices.  One thing that made us nervous here was that the barman kept offering stuff and when we refused he insisted and said ‘gratis’ (free).  As a rule of thumb you should always ask the price before accepting.  This time it turned out okay but in the past I have gotten burned on the what I like to call “oh my friend you must try this!” scam.  One tapa that I had here that was exceptional was the fried chorizo.  Common as chorizo is I have never had one so tasty.

Madrid is filled with great food and friendly people so even if you still want to sit down and have a meal make sure you don’t miss the opportunity to just go on walk-about and experience the capital of the world’s Snack Capital.  Enjoy and Buen provecho!

During my travels I have met a lot of people doing odd jobs to supplement their income to keep themselves on the road.  In fact, the romance of hopping from place to place and finding this or that job was pretty exciting to me at one time.  I have done everything from washing dishes in Tel-Aviv to creating “atmosphere” in Joe’s Garage in Lagos Portugal.  Recently, with the new generation of tech and media savvy travelers I have met people blogging their way from hostel to hostel.  I ‘ve even met the @Twitchhiker who successfully made it half-way around the world by connecting with people on Twitter and depending on the kindness of strangers.  This type of travel is a long way from the times of yore when travelers packed up a Lonely Planet or Let’s Go and took to the rail to look for receptionist gigs in sketchy hostels and tout jobs for dive bars.  Sure, those jobs are still out there but there are a lot more ways to get around and even boost your resume and or portfolio in the process.

By far one of the most creative ways I have seen a group of travelers keep it going is happening right now with a team of four Korean filmmakers who are planning to stay abroad for the next year.  Equipped only with one laptop that is in use 24 hours, their creativity and a willingness to subsist, these four have already created some of the most exciting hostel videos out there and they have another eight or so months of traveling.  When Hojae was able to take a break to meet me for a coffee in Rome he told me that when they landed in Paris in October 2009 they really had not thought out the situation in detail.  In fact, they had not even made a video that they could pitch.  And judging from the initial video that they created in Paris, even though it shows skill, it is completely void a WOW factor that might excite a hostel owner to agree to a video for bed exchange before the video is delivered.  But Yellow Hostel in Rome gave them a shot and the gang hitchhiked from Paris to Rome and delivered a WOW video that would make any hostel owner proud (see video); oh, in case you are wondering Hojae told me that there was actually no spray paint involved in the video and that effect took a bit of time to create.   Obviously from this video their skill and creativity shine through.  I am especially impressed with how the video captures the essence and character of its subject.  After the Yellow video they have gotten a number of offers, including this video for Hostel Alessandro Palace in Rome,  but they still have a bunch of time left in their trip  and are looking to explore the rest of Europe.

Check out their Youtube page at www.youtube.com/user/pm35mm or website www.ingyeo.net.  Or maybe just drop them a line at pm35mm at hotmail dot com.

Jose Ramon Elizandro (Joserra) at Alona Berri

I am always nervous about ordering at a new restaurant.  Will it be good? Will my meal be best item on the menu?  My greatest fear is that I will choose poorly while one of my dining mates hits the deliciousness jackpot resulting in my stewing while they relish.  I call this feeling ‘food envy’, which for me manifests itself as an almost uncontrollable impulse to toss my plate aside and lunge at another’s food.  When eating out food envy always seems to be a possibility until you can find someplace where chefs execute scrumptious miniature gourmet morsels that are so cheap that it you don’t like them then there is no worry.  And if someone else has something better than you then you can easily have the same without breaking the bank.   I suppose, while I am dreaming, I would like for that place to be by the sea and have sandy beaches and a pumping nightlife.  Wait!  That place does exist!  Actually it is a whole city called San Sebastian in the Basque Country in Spain and it is a foodie paradise that is void of food envy.

While searching for worthwhile culinary adventure, on Twitter, I asked for suggestions about worthwhile destinations and promptly Linda Fox (@foxychops) suggested San Sebastian.  I quickly learned that San Sebastian has many quality restaurants in a small area and an extraordinary gusto for food.  Additionally, the city has large and clean sandy beaches, stunning vistas and a lively nightlife.  I still had some questions about activities so I emailed the San Sebastian Tourist Office and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that they were responsive and very helpful.  I was sold.

There is an old saying that says that ‘heaven is where all the cooks are Spanish.’ Growing up in an Italian family with a rich food culture I’d never have believed this, especially since my only experience with anything even remotely Spanish was a dish called Spanish rice, which I remember from my elementary school days as being pasty rice goop that could crawl down a wall.  However, I’ve since learned that this statement may be true, especially of the Basque Region.

A pinch of gastronomy that is arguably the base of Basque culture is the pintxo (‘peen-sho’) which is a variation of tapas common throughout Spain.  There is no strict definition for a pintxo – in fact there are too many varieties to even count – but the word means ‘spike’ because there is often a wooden spear skewing the bite sized snack.  Some places tally the bill by counting the toothpicks on your plate.  The accepted legend is that tapas / pintxos are the result of a 13^th Century law imposed by King Alfonso X either for health reasons or to prevent drunk driving.  Since then pintxos have become a key ingredient of the San Sebastian cultural palette.  This can be seen  nightly when the town’s streets fills up with people on  pintxos bar hop called a txikiteo (‘chickie-te-o’) that happens from about 7pm until the famously late Spanish dinner time that barely starts by 10pm.  Besides being fun, the txikiteo is one of those rare authentic cultural activities that is assessable to tourists.

The heart of the San Sebastian’s pintxos district is the Parte Viaja which the cobble stoned lined old town that is full of pubs and numerous taverns serving the local snacks that range from basic to gourmet and cost between €1.50 to €3.00 apiece.  Glasses of beer and wine run about the same price.  However, don’t limit yourself to the Parte Vieja because there are notable taverns all over the 180,000-person city.

Some notable restaurants:

Alona Berri-  Located in Gros, about a 20 minute walk from the Parte Viaja, this is one of the most famous pintxos restaurants in San Sebastian. Owned and run by Jose Ramon Elizandro, Joserra (pictured at top), who is a seasoned veteran of the San Sebastian food scene, this small restaurant needs to be on any txikiteo.  Alona Berri is much more posh and experimental as the tag-line “Alta cocina in Minitura” (upscale food in miniature) implies.  The service here was excellent and the food resembled a tasting menu at a chic restaurant. The only exceptions being the causal atmosphere and featherweight bill totaling €70.00 which included 15 pintxos, 2 glasses of wine, a bottle of wine and an after dinner drink.  One of the best price to quality restaurants that one could ever expect to experience.  Take your food and drink at the bar for a 7% discount or enjoy the excellent service sitting down and enjoying the spectrum of interesting and tasty miniature dishes.

Bar Gorriti-  At the edge of the Parte Vieja you’ll find this nondescript and very authentic tavern.  You might be tempted to only stick your head in, thinking that you’ll find something better down the road, which you might, but the great thing about a txikiteo is that you don’t have to commit more than €1.50 and 10 minutes.  Bar Gorriti has the same pinxtos found throughout the whole quarter but I found them among the largest that I saw.  Take a minute to peruse the pictures on the walls to see how the adjacent square, which used to be the main market that is now underground, has looked over the decades.

Bar Nestor-  Famous for its tortilla which is generally regarded the best in San Sebastian.  Don’t expect to just walk in and get a slice of this revered potato pie, you will have to plan ahead and possibly reserve a piece.  Tortillas are only served twice a day at 1:00 and 8:00pm.  Try stopping by at least 2 hours before hand if you do not just want to try your luck.

A Fuego Negro-  Right on 31 Augusto which is a main vein pumping through the Parte Vieja you’ll find this unique restaurant run by the next generation of pinxtos artists.  A Fuego Negro is an updated pintxos bar and restaurant which pushes the envelop both in terms of superbly executed pintxos mini soups such as tomato puree, mussels and béchamel and décor that is a refreshing contrast to traditional wooden interiors.

Ganderias-  No trip to Spain would be complete without indulging yourself in a big plate of jambon serrano (ham) and a steak.  Ganderias is a straightforward steakhouse that serves tender aged beef by the kilo so bring your appetite (i.e. skip the last three or so pinxtos).  Ganderias is very reasonably priced, especially considering the quality of meat.  We escaped with a bill of only €75.00, which included a mixed ham plate, kilo of steak, bottle of wine, bottled water and after dinner drink.  The portions were too big for one person and it was accepted, and perhaps even expected, that everything be split between at least two.

Gabriella our friendly cooking teacher from Tenedor Tours.

If you that want to bring your new found pintxos love home to impress your friends or just want to develop your cooking skills, I recommend the pintxos cooking classes run by Tenedor Tours.  Besides being a great way to spend an afternoon you learn how to make your own pintxos so that your Basque experience will live on.  Recommended by the San Sebastian Tourist Office, Tenedor is run by transplanted New Yorker Gabriella Ranelli de Aguirre.  The class is advertised as 3 hours long (ours lasted longer when you include eating time) and costs €125 per person which includes the lesson, food and wine.  Gabriella brings the group on a pretty solid walking tour to stores to buy and sample cheeses and meats while she shares her anecdotes that she has accumulated while living in San Sebastian for 10 years.  Besides the many useful cooking tips we learned, Gabriella focuses on pintxos made of common ingredients that can be easily made at home.  Our lesson included how to make six types of pintxos, homemade mayonnaise and gazpacho.  Groups are limited to about 8 and lessons are given in a super nice flat in the Parte Vieja that is fully equipped and spacious enough for the group to move about freely.  For a budget traveler €125 may be out of range but consider that food, wine and a unique experience is included.  We have recreated the recipes and utilized the cooking tips all with great success!

All the excitement of a complex yet assessable tasting menu, San Sebastian cuisine is the perfect  getaway from food envy that will satisfy any foodie.  As previously mentioned the Tourist Office is a huge help.  Even if you do not book online for the activities make sure that you stop by the office to get updated information and to book your activities such as sailing, a pintxos tour and of course the cooking class.  Walking tours also originate there for €6 and provide a decent city overview in terms of both the history and orientation.  San Sebastian is very popular with the Spanish so getting a room in high August season will be more challenging and expensive.  Moreover, because of its proximity to Pamplona many people use it as a base for their bull running excursion so plan a head for the first week in July.

Where to stay:

NH Aranzazu-  Good customer service, big and clean rooms and reasonably priced.  This hotel is a distance from the Parte Vieja and not practical to walk but the bus is close by and frequent and there is a beach with walking distance.  Cabs run about 6 – €8 depending on the time of day.  www.nh-hotels.com/NHAranzazu

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/09/16/san-sebastian-spain-a-foodie-paradise/feed/ 1 http://ikangaroo.com/2009/07/08/escape-to-ischia/ http://ikangaroo.com/2009/07/08/escape-to-ischia/#comments Wed, 08 Jul 2009 09:42:06 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1994 Even though Ischia is not as famous as its neighbor Capri, it is a beautiful island and worth a visit for its exciting activities, thermal spas, delicious food, hospitable people and pleasant atmosphere.

In the Gulf of Naples in 6 B.C the Emperor Augustus traded the island of Ischia for Capri.  This swap still resonates today as the island that gained Imperial favor, Capri, remains popular and the other, Ischia, continues to be fairly unknown.  In fact, if you were to ask someone from Ischia about Capri the response would most likely be that Capri is good for a day trip while staying on Ischia, which has so much more to offer.  Over the centuries Ischia has been ruled by occupying armies, countries, pirates and ruling families; however, in spite of its shaky political and natural history it remains faithful to its Greek and Italian roots.  Today the rocky island has a population of about 60,000 that is divided among five towns with the two largest being Ischia Town and Forio. Once on the island, Ischia Town has the most nightlife and shopping while the quieter Forio provides a quaint and relaxing atmosphere.

My wife and I spent four days during the end of May on this island that has remarkable beauty, warm days and crisp nights, whitewashed buildings with blue trim, great food, and friendly people that are proud of their history and island.  Our days were activity filled with swimming, driving the scooter around to the island’s attractions, hiking Mount Epomeo and soaking in the many hot springs while our evenings were spent relaxing and eating the local dishes. As two very independent travelers with vastly different requirements for a relaxing getaway, Ischia satisfied us both as it offers good and unique food plus plenty of activities.  And our enjoyment was compounded because our hosts delivered superior hospitality and a clean place to stay.  Ischia could be precisely what you need if traveling with friends, as a couple, with a family or if you are just looking for a quiet and easy to reach escape from a noisy city hopping grind.

Getting to and around Ischia:

We departed from Naples on a hydrofoil (€18 each way) and within a little over an hour we reached Forio, which is smaller than Iscia Town but with plenty to do and is easy to access the rest of the island. Rather than dealing with public transportation we rented a scooter for €25 per day as it allowed us to set our own schedule.  Although, with the windy roads, fast cars, faster scooters and hills a scooter is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced so a car rental might be a better option- they were not much more than the scooters.  In talking to other travelers we were told that the buses were timely, cheap and adequately got them around.

Where to stay:

We stayed at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is a Colella Family property.  Amerigo, one of the Colella sons, picked us up at the port, brought us to our apartment, recommend things to do on the island, arranged our scooter, transported to and from their restaurant and then finally dropped us off at the port.  From Papa Salvatore and Mama Tina to the three brothers Giuseppe, Amerigo and Lorenzo this clan delivers their promise of family hospitality and as a consequence they provide an authentic Italian experience. From cooking lessons with Mama Tina to learning how to make limoncello with Papa Salvatore to each of the brothers zooming between all their properties to look after the guests the Colella Family provides a truly unique opportunity to learn, rest and enjoy Ischia.

Depending on your preferences the Colellas have three different and distinct accommodation options.

A traditional hotel: Poggio del Sole is on the same land that Salvatore’s and Tina’s respective families owned before they married so in a way it is the land that grew the family.  Each room has its own bathroom and balcony with a sea view and some rooms even have a kitchenette and two balconies.  It is located just above the family restaurant La Casereccia so meals are an easy commute.  The hotel is a good choice if you are looking for a quite get-away.  Poggio del Sole is in a neighborhood that makes it impractical to walk to the port so if you stay here you will want to factor in transportation.

View from patio at Rotonda sul Mare

Apartments and rooms: We chose to stay at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is located on the sea and is a 20 minute stroll from Forio and even less to some bars (in the Italian sense) and restaurants.  Keep in mind that many European beaches are rocky but approximately 300 meters away there is a sandy beach.  From June to September a deck is set up so you can sunbathe right on the water and as of May 2009 there are plans to install a beach bar.  With a few levels of patios, the beautiful sunsets and easy water access we loved the location.  The interiors of the rooms are basic, but very clean and spacious. My wife normally prefers a luxurious feeling room but she found this very comfortable and I had no complaints.

The hostel: Ring hostel is a standard hostel that offers more atmosphere than amenities.  This is one of those places where if the walls could talk, goodness knows what they would say. But as luck would have it the walls do talk in that travelers have been using them as a guest book since Ring Hostel was opened in 2005.

The food: Forio had many tasty restaurants, but our experience was tainted due to one tourist trap.  To start positively, the hotel Poggio del Sole is connected to the family restaurant, La Casereccia, which everyone should try.  It has a traditional wood burning pizza oven and they serve many of their homemade products including Papa Salvatore’s limoncello and prune juice.  La Casereccia is a restaurant where you can “si mangia bene” and stay on budget.  One of the most outstanding dishes that we had was the octopus salad (insalata di polpo).  It is an Ischia specialty so it will be on the menu most places.  In Ischia this salad is prepared by adding some small cut-up octopi with oil, lemon and a few other garden ingredients that results in a simple and tasty appetizer.

Just down the beach from the La Rotonda sul Mar is a string of restaurants that all seem to be about the same.  We chose one at random and ended up being pleasantly surprised. The name is called L’Ancora and it is really not that much to look at but it does have an extension on the beach, which met our single criterion for that meal.  We ordered a frutti del mare pizza complete with octopus, mussels and anchovies and it was fresh and tasty while not being too fishy.  But the real treat was a bruschetta panino that they make with their homemade pizza dough.  I thought that I had seen all variations of the bruschetta but this was a stand out by being served on pizza dough. L’Ancora is a good bet for the restaurants along that strip.

Sometimes the problem with traveling off-season is that many of the places that heavily target tourists will not be opened or in full swing.  Indeed, the port of Forio on a Tuesday night at the end of May was pretty empty. Unfortunately we settled for the restaurant called La Romantica di Porto Francesco because it at least had a few other guests.  When we arrived the waiter seemed nice enough.  He recommended a decent bottle of Greco di Tufo (we found the table white wine on Ischia to be pretty poor) and walked us through the menu making a couple reasonable recommendations.  Then he pulled what I call an “off menu” stunt which is when a waiter suggests a “special dish” that is not on the menu, so there is no price. In this instance although we insisted we were not all that hungry the waiter heartily insisted that we had to try the specialty of the house. As seasoned travelers we know to ask the price – but didn’t as the waiter seemed pleasant and we were feeling comfortable.  In the end we paid as it was way too much food and had a price 2-3 times any other appetizer on the menu. We disputed the bill when it came but the waiter said we had agreed to it. Instead of making a scene we paid and left with another traveler rule more ingrained in our minds.  The lesson is always the same: insist on knowing the price before ordering and when you hear, “I have something special for you” or “don’t worry about it I will make you a special price” most likely you are about to get taken.  It is no surprise that this little scam and overcooked pasta ruined the evening; the wine was decent and a real steal at only 50% the price of the appetizer.

What to do: Hike to the top of the Island:  The hike to the top of Mount Epomeo is easy but strenuous. The hike took us about 45 minutes to an hour but the view from the top alone makes it worth the hike. The hike can get a bit hot so try to do it in the morning. It is strange to think hike and then automatically think food, but there are three places to eat along the way: one at the very bottom, another hidden in the woods about 25% of the way up and another at the very top.

Hunters' rabbit is an Ischia specialty

After the hike we stayed on the top for some cold water and a snack at the restaurant that looked like a mud hut but had, as you might imagine, an excellent view.  My wife sampled the bruschetta, which was a pile of tomatoes and basil bathed in tasty olive oil set on a garlicky half loaf of toasted Italian bread.  I went for the specialty of the region that I discovered while hiking up when I saw a few playful signs advertising coniglio alla cacciatore, translated hunter’s rabbit.  Fortunately, I ordered the coniglio because it was easily the best rabbit that I have ever eaten and among some of the best dishes that I have ever tasted.  It was served in a thick but not too heavy tomato sauce with roasted red bell peppers, onions, garlic along with some white wine, salt, pepper and a few family secrets.  For those that have not tried rabbit the taste is not particularly strong or gamey but has the taste of fowl dark meat with a texture of duck so it is not stringy like chicken.  However, in this recipe the rabbit is smothered in so much sauce that the natural flavor is in a supporting rather than starring role. The pasta dishes that we saw come out were also plentiful, actually enough for two.  Our bill totaled €39.00 with the €18.00 rabbit being the lion’s share of the bill with the bruschetta, salad and half liter of wine making up the difference.  It was an excellent meal and experience- highly recommended.

Negombo: One reason why Augustus decided to trade Ischia was because of the risk of severe volcanic activity was too great to invest building an imperial palace or even spending time there.  But it is exactly all of that activity that creates all of the thermal springs that makes Ischia such a find.  Negombo is a thermal bath park that is one of the best places that we have found while traveling.  We are not a sit on the beach type couple so we appreciated the opportunity to visit the 25 different thermal pools that the resort offers. With everything from hot and cold dips, to Turkish baths, to a variety of heated pools in addition to one of the nicest beaches we saw on Ischia, it is an excellent way for anyone to spend the day.

We spent an enjoyable day trying all of the pools, returning to the ones we liked best, eating lunch and swimming in the ocean. Our favorite was the water cascades that drop water from various heights that when you stand under the water stream it actually gives you a pretty thorough and effective massage. The cost of entry was €29 per person which might not be in everyone’s budget, but both of us felt that it was well worth it as we spent 6 hours jumping from pool to pool. If you decide to go – bring your own towel, a pair of shoes you don’t mind getting wet, and careful of the sun – all that jumping from pool to pool wipes off any sunscreen. Another note is that if you plan on going here to be sure and ask the reception at your hotel for discount coupons which will save you €3 per ticket.

Baia di Sorgeto: Nestled into a small bay and just off the beach are a few warm water pockets that are like hot tubs in the sea.  Also known for the mud that is dredged from around the area, which is used for an all-natural facial this is a worthwhile destination.  Baia di Sorgeto can be reached by bus, taxi, on your own, boat or water taxi from Sant’Angelo.  The rocky beach is not very comfortable but there are lounges to be rented for about €15 and the bar / restaurant is very reasonable.  The mud can be bought either by the jar, or when we were the bar was selling it by the mask.  At times this place can be infested with jellyfish thus making the pools inaccessible.  To avoid this have your hotel receptionist call La Sorgente, the bar / restaurant only meters away, and ask for a jellyfish report.  Phone number: 081.907837.  Nothing would be worse than traveling across Ischia to Baia di Sorgento only to descend the 200 something stairs and learn that the sparkling in the water is really sacs of stinging plasma.

Nitrodi: These sulfur springs have been in use since ancient Romans visited Ischia.  We stopped by and gave them a look but decided against going in because the whole area was not inviting plus the €9 frankly did not seem worth it.  We would recommend this if Baia di Sorgento is infested with jellyfish but on its own with a limited time or financial budget we recommend giving this a miss.

Sant’ Angelo: This fishing village is on the itinerary of every organized tour in Ischia.  The main draw is the beauty created by the isthmus- also a sandy beach- that connects the mainland to a small dot of land that is now covered with hotels.  Sant’ Angelo is great for walking around because they severely limit motor traffic all over town so you are not being constantly buzzed by cars and omnipresent scooters. There is a cluster of bars and cafés on the mainland that are not terribly expensive and there are a lot of shops, with typical tourist stuff in addition too some pretty fun boutiques.  We found that Sant’Angelo was perfect for a light lunch or drink but not worth spending an entire afternoon that is unless you are there for the beach.

After our four days on Ischia we were completely relaxed and recharged. Aside from the “off menu” incident, which could have taken place anywhere, Ischia was a very worthwhile destination.  We felt that we could have stayed a couple more days so now we just have to figure out how to go back!

Where to stay: The Colella Family www.hotelpoggiodelsole.it  or for Ring Hostel www.ringhostel.com  They waill also be able to set up the apartment or room rental at Rotona sul Mar.

Where to eat: At the top of Mount Epomeo, La Casereccia (The Colella Family
restaurant)

Food and drink: Coniglio della Cacciatore; Rucolino is the local liqueur made out of arugula and tastes like Jagermeister; octopus salad; paccheri pasta (large round tubes) with mussels and pecorino.

Where to go: Negombo, Baia di Sorgeto, Sant’ Angelo, Mount Epomeo

Cooking classes: Contact La Casereccia www.lacasereccia.com to inquire about cooking classes and other classes that the Colella Family provides.

When to go: The busy, busy season is in August when the island is full of Europeans.  April – June and Sept – October will still have great weather but Ischia will be quieter.  The benefit of going during the busy season is that everything will be open and there will be a lot more nightlife options.  However, we are more early and late season travelers so we did not mind the fewer options in exchange for no crowds.  While Ischia may be fairly untrodden by English speaking travelers it is not a secret to Germans and Asians so expect to share the island with them no matter when you decide to visit.