Stonehenge was high on my list of things to see and I am satisfied with the experience, but I did not have expectations of 30 meter high stones that I would be able to walk freely around and through.  In fact, the highest stone is about 7.5 meters (25 ft) and the monument is roped off so the closest that one can get it about 25 meters (100 or so feet) from the stones.  The £6.50 admission fee (included with most tours) includes an audio guide that does its best to put whatever guesses the experts have about the artifact into context.

Stonehenge is a good experience and recommended for Druids, major history enthusiasts with great imaginations who are not looking for concrete rock solid answers, and people with some time to kill in London who are looking to see the beautiful English countryside.  It is not recommended for people who have limited time in London, people who will be disappointed with only 25ft high stones, and all others who have used the words ‘underwhelming’, ‘overrated’ or ‘boring’ to describe the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Parthenon, Tower of London and or the Roman Forum.

How to get there:

Train is an option but the logistics are a bit complicated.  Probably the easiest way to see the Hanging Rocks is to go with one of the numerous tour companies.  There are a number of tours that either swing by Stonehenge after Windsor Castle and before Bath (approx £65) or go directly there and back (£25 and includes admission).  No matter how you try to do it you are looking at a minimum of 6 hours to get there, see it, and get back.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/12/history-of-valentines-day/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/02/france-its-groundhog-day-no-its-jour-des-crepes/ http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/02/france-its-groundhog-day-no-its-jour-des-crepes/#comments Tue, 02 Feb 2010 15:18:54 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=2197

Why I suggest trying this out:

I am very enthusiastic about Roman history and 3D Rome Rewind provides a faithful rendition of how ancient Rome physically looked.   Even the most skillful storyteller (i.e. tour guide) has difficulty communicating that at its height the Roman Forum had enough marble to make twenty Westminster Abbeys not to mention gladiator combat or how everyday Romans lived.  3D Rome Rewind effectively does this in a 30 minute show.  For me it was exciting to see a digital version of Rome surround me to the extent that at times I felt I could reach out and touch the walls.  The 3D modeling and stadium theater venue are excellent and in themselves worth the visit, even if only for the novelty of seeing how ancient Rome looked in surround 3D.

Why hard core history buffs might want to think twice:

The virtual model and story is based on Rome circa 310 AD when a power struggle was happening between the Emperor Maxentius  and Constantine.  While Constantine is famous the time frame for the story is not the most exciting or well known Roman history epoch.  I would think that with this sophisticated modeling that it would be easy to reconstruct let’s say Julius Caesar (complete with his face) to be the tour guide rather than an anonymous Roman aristocrat who at times can be annoying with his snorting laugh.  The gladiator combat in the arena exercises a few artistic liberties that I feel are unnecessary; however, they do not detract from the experience unless you are a stickler for Roman history, in which case I suggest simply enjoying the experience in itself.  I feel Rome Rewind is entertainment focused which for the mob is great but not so much for hardcore history buffs.  Those of you that could not get over the creative license Ridley Scott took with Gladiator it would be wise to not have very high expectations for the story line.

Rome Rewind is based on a virtual model that was developed in academia and is the same Ancient Rome layer in Google Earth.  From my discussion with CEO Joel Myers there is a real focus on keeping the content historically accurate as well as entertaining.  There are plans for launching other uses for this technology around Rome, and perhaps in other cities. Overall I feel that this is a novel and worthwhile experience that I recommend visiting immediately before seeing Coliseum and Roman Forum.  Seeing this show will do a lot to help you imagine what Rome was when seeing the ruins.

I wish them them great success because I can truly see the value of this technology and how it will greatly enhance how people lean about and experience Rome.

Address: 5 Capo d’Africa

Special prices available ONLY if booked through the website

www.3drewind.com

This museum is recommended especially for those, like me, who appreciate seeing the same landmarks and monuments that make Paris famous and unique in different scenarios throughout the years.

• Admission: Free (there is a charge for special exhibits)
• Hours: 10:00 am to 6:00 pm- closed on Mondays and certain holidays
• Time to visit: About 90 min
• Recommendations for nearby eating and drinking: Chez Janou and Les Philosphes.

My favorite parts: the section on the French Revolution and all the paintings of Paris’ different landmarks contained in the 18th and 19th century exhibits.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/01/17/free-paris-museum-of-paris-history/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2008/12/12/paris-on-a-budget-rue-mouffetard/ http://ikangaroo.com/2008/12/12/paris-on-a-budget-rue-mouffetard/#comments Fri, 12 Dec 2008 13:15:00 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1344

By Chris

Rue Mouffetard in Paris’ 5th arrondissement is the definition of the beaten path.  It does not have undiscovered nooks with kindly shop-keepers who serve up surprisingly delicious food or have piles of rare antiques with that certain something that you have been searching the world over.  Instead it is a touristic production line that churns through 1000s of visitors in its countless bistros, restaurants, bars, pubs and sidewalk cafes. To the uninformed and travel elitist it is merely a Left Bank cliche full of indifferent service, mediocre food and cheap souvenirs.  However, if you’re able to accept, as my recent tour guide Alex said, that “you are a tourist” than you’ll find that rue Mouffetard is an exceptional opportunity to enjoy Paris on a budget.  It certainly has some good finds and overall great deals set in a bustling neighborhood that was born in Roman times close to 2000 years ago. A walk from the top of Mouffetard to the bottom will give you ample opportunity to take in small fun cafes and inexpensive restaurants.  Here are some I want to share.

Let’s start our exploration at the top of Mouffetard at 39 rue Descartes which is just above Mouffetard and close to the Pantheon, where Fucoult’s Pendulum is located.  In the 1920’s a poor and unknown Earnest Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, lived in this building in a small third floor cold-water walk-up.  Today there is a plaque just under a canopy for a restaurant named La Maison de la Verlaine that informs passers by that Hemingway lived there from 1921-25.  We ate a Sunday lunch there that included two fixed menus plus wine which totaled close to 50€.  I had the frog legs with pomme frites which I thought were average (you never really want average frog legs) and overall we didn’t think the place or food were remarkable.

Down the street about 200 meters is Place de la Contrescarpe which is surrounded by some typical Parisian cafes and pubs– among them is Cafe Delmas, formerly Cafe des Armateurs which Hemingway called the cesspool of Mouffetard which now is now is nice but somewhat corporate –  that occupy prime real estate for people watching, grabbing a drink and enjoying this classic square.  Any of the cafes offer a similar experience and all are quite pricey relative to their neighbors just a few dozen meters away in any direction.  Nevertheless, they are less expensive alternatives, if not as fashionable, to their counterparts on the Champs or in Saint Germain, and all have the added benefit of very limited motor traffic therefore less noise.

As you are walking through this area you will probably notice lot’s of signs advertising Happy Hour at the scores of bars in the area– funny enough: the French wanted to get rid of the term ‘week-end’ because it is English but ‘happy hour’ seems to be going strong.  Generally happy hours in Paris are from 17:00 (5 pm) to 20:00, sometimes as late as 22:00, and drink prices are heavily discounted as much as 50%. Mouffetard has some of the best (i.e. cheapest) happy hours in Paris.  Here are two pub selections: one chosen for its comfortable atmosphere and inexpensive drinks and the other for its history.  PUB #1, The Fifth Bar located at number 62. This dive is a neighborhood hangout / college pub that offers the cheapest happy hour pints in the area, and I would guess Paris, for only €2.50.  The Fifth Bar also has free English newspapers and magazines, a friendly bar staff, beer-pong tournaments and the whole place seems to be set-up to meet people.  It is a good choice for groups, lone travelers, everyone sticking to a budget, and they will show the match / game (NFL, Soccer, Rugby) if you ask.  Happy hour ends at 21:00 (9pm) with drink specials all night on Thursdays.  PUB #2, Roadhouse le Vieux Chene at number 69. Not as cheap as Fifth Bar but it still has worthwhile happy hour deals ranging from €3.50 Stellas to €6.00 cocktails.  The interior is clean rustic, which means that it is designed to look like an old roadhouse.  I have been there a couple of times and the bar staff has always been friendly.  To me the history of a place is always a big draw and this pub has the distinction of being in a location that has been selling wine since the late 1500s as explained on the historical marker just to the left of the entrance.

Now to eat. Paris has a variety of crepe and sandwich stands.  From shoddy set-ups in the back of trucks to take away (emporter) windows in established restaurants these French stuffed pancakes can be an inexpensive and filling meal.  I am not a crepe connoisseur and historically I thought that all crepes are pretty similar, however, as I have experienced on Mouffetard this simply is not the case.  AU P’TIT GREC at number 66 seems to be an institution as evidenced by all the people migrate there leaving adjacent crepe shops empty.  I have tried these crepes which are made by a Greek family from Thessaloniki and I was impressed. Their crepes are the most interesting I have eaten in that the proprietors instill their Greek heritage by mixing in some feta with the usual ingredients.  It’s worth the wait and prices are right in line with the competition at €3 to €4.50 so they seem to be winning this crepe war based solely on their superior product.

For more of a sit down experience try Le Mouff’tot Mouff’tard at number 73.  In terms of the food it was above average- not outstanding, but good–, yet when the cost of about €40 per person including wine (wine there- table wine anyways- is cheap (€9 per 50cl), a rarity in Paris) is factored in this restaurant becomes a good choice.  When I ate there pushed the upward price bounds (i.e. the most expensive menu and numerous carafes wine) and the price was still reasonable.  The owner and his wait staff were very attentive and I was particularly impressed that when I left something there and returned a week later that they had remembered me and were happy to return my property.  This is no Michelin star property but it came recommended by some people in the neighborhood and it met my expectations as a decent place with good food at a reasonable price.

A classic French brasserie that I like a lot is called Le Mouffetard at 116.  From its appearance this is a cliche French brassiere, a possibly a tourist trap, because of its ornate trimmings, colorful vintage French advertising posters and zinc bar.  Yet, I have found this restaurant to be friendly, if you take your drink at the bar it is cheap and the food is good.  One of my favorite meals there was a cheesy, potato and bacon dish called tartiflette (€11 including a small salad) which was served in an individual baking dish so you know that it was baked fresh as opposed to just reheated and slapped on a plate.  Tartiflette comes from the mountain region in France and it an excellent and hardy meal for one of those cold and damp Parisian winter days.

Another restaurant that was recommended by locals is called La Salle a Manger at 138, specializing in salads and tartines, located in the market area at the end of the rue. They are only open for breakfast, lunch and brunch.  I had a salad that was big enough for two and was a nice break from the more traditional French fare.  The prices are very affordable to the budget conscious and this restaurant is also nice because of its outdoor seating amidst the hustle and bustle of the market- if you are into that type of thing.

For a little more of an elegant affair or perhaps a glass of wine try Cave La Bourgogne at 144.  This is another classic French brasserie but what I find most interesting is that it is decorated with vintage pictures of the area.  I always like these places and tremendously enjoy the pictures of people doing the exact some thing in the same place but 50 years or so ago.  Cave La Bourgogne is perfect for a cup of coffee €1.20 or a glass of wine €3.00 and it also has a nice terrace with excellent people watching values. For a quick lunch or a snack they have a great country platter (cheese, meat and vegetables served on a wooden cutting board), which will run about €10.00.

Last and my favorite of the lot is Cafe Lea which is located off the bottom of Mouffetard at 5 Claude-Bernard.  This cafe is popular with the work crowd so if you want to lunch here either arrive early around noon or after 14:00 when the work crowd has dissipated but you then run the risk of not getting the best menu items as they will have assuredly sold out for the day.  The menu is ever changing and consists of variations on classic French dishes.  Entrees run around €15 and you can expect to drop ~€25 per person if you want to do the whole French lunch (i.e. entree, desert, wine and cafe), which is a good deal considering the quality food you are getting in Cafe Lea’s fun and fresh atmosphere.  The service is efficent, polite and consistent.  With that said, they do a booming lunch business and understand that table turn-over equals increased revenues so be prepared for this or try timing your lunch a bit later at around 14:00 as most French will be winding down and going back to work.

Now to wrap up with a great coffee.  My personal favorite both for the €1.00 price-tag and quality of coffee is called Brulerie des Ternes at number 111.  This cafe, and I use the term loosely, is nothing more than a coffee purveyor with a couple of seats and four standing tables.  The coffee is strong and the view is good so for a quick cafe break this place would be hard to beat, especially on a nice day.

Okay now that you are sold on how great the 5th is you probably want to know where to stay.  Sure there are lots of hotels in the area and I hope that people will give me some feedback about which they have enjoyed for now all I have is the hostel called Young and Happy at number 80 rue Moufftard.  In terms of location this hostel is hard to beat and generally it is everything a backpacker expects in a youth hostel (i.e. bunk beds, shared bathrooms and somewhat cramped quarters).  The prices are right in line with other Parisian hostels.  The feedback that I have gotten about Y&H has been positive but it has been mentioned by some backpackers I chatted with who were staying there wished it has more social space.  However, I spoke with the manager, Charles, and they are in the middle of a renovation so look for more chatting-up space in 2009.

Rue Moufftard may be a heavily touristic area but it is far from a tourist trap if you know where to go.  Mix  tourists in with French students, an old neighborhood and a high concentration of French businesses and what you have is an opportunity to have an unique French experience.  One last note: Mondays are very slow here as the markets and many of the places that I have mentioned are closed, so keep in mind that Mondays are not the day to get the full Mouffetard experience..

If you have had an experience in The Mouffetard that you would like to share please do not hesitate.  Thanks for reading.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2008/12/12/paris-on-a-budget-rue-mouffetard/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2008/11/13/paris-guide-to-visiting-the-crown-of-thorns/ http://ikangaroo.com/2008/11/13/paris-guide-to-visiting-the-crown-of-thorns/#comments Thu, 13 Nov 2008 09:17:26 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1172

By Chris–

To a large degree being Catholic gives a traveler advantages in navigating the ABC’s of European travel.  The ABC’s?  All the Bloody Churches.  Why does being Catholic help?  Because where there are churches there are relics and ceremonies that have protocol that even the most latent Catholic can remember quicker than you can say, “Hail Mary.”  For an accidental Catholic – a non-Catholic who is an accidental participant in Catholic ritual – finding yourself in what may look like a Holy aerobics session may be awkward because of all the sitting, crossing, kneeling, hand motions, etc.  Recently, even I, a Catholic, was caught off guard when I went to the Veneration of the Crown of Thorns so I have put together these tips for getting the most out of your visit to see the Relics of the Passion at Notre Dame de Paris.

I should know by now that whenever I want to do something that I should double my time estimate.  I thought that the Veneration would only take a few minutes for me to show-up, snap some photos and get on with my life, but… aaaahhhhh, not so fast.  After arriving plenty early, I inquired at the information desk where to go and I was soon sitting among hundreds of people, including two women who chanted for a solid thirty minutes.  Then, finally, the production started as the relics were brought out by a dozen priests. Perhaps most interesting at that point was seeing the Equestrian Knights of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem, which is a Catholic chivalric order that can supposedly trace its heritage back to the First Crusade circa 1100.  The ceremony quickly developed into typical Catholic fare with the standing, sitting, crossing oneself and incense burning set to organ music and singing.  The grand finale was the opportunity to personally venerate the relic in a variety of ways including kneeling or prostating themselves before the crown, pressing their head upon, touching, just looking at, and/or kissing the jewel and glass encased Crown of Thorns.  If the thought of kissing something after hundreds of people makes you want to throw up in your mouth, don’t worry because they are cleaning the glass with enough alcohol that the fumes would resurrect Lazarus.  Since I was there I was curious to see the crown as closely as I could so I got in line.  As I moved forward I could feel my skepticism evaporate and as I approached the relic presented in all its glory, my heart beats quickened, my breaths shortened and I unexplainedly became optimistic that in the jeweled case was the actual crown of thorns.  For me this is sometimes what travel is: putting your beliefs aside, getting into the moment, respecting other people’s views and imagining the possibilities.  At the very least people have been venerating this relic for centuries, which in itself is awesome.  I recommend that if you have the opportunity you strongly consider this activity.

As a general rule this event is held the first Friday of the month but this can change so check this link here to confirm.  It is in French but you should be able to make the month and date, it is always at 15:00 (3:00 pm).

Some options for how the Veneration can be done to fit your level of interest.

Experience the whole ceremony: Arrive about 2:00 pm (14:00) and choose a seat close to the front and near the center aisle.  This provides a better view of the relics as they are carried by and you to be among the first to venerate the crown.  NOTE: When you are within the veneration area cameras are forbidden.  After visiting the relics, position yourself along the side to take pictures but the light and distance make this challenging with anything less than an excellent camera.

View the procession and take pictures: Note the following points on the map below: 0) Entrance to the Cathedral; 1-6) Facing the alter these numbers designate the south (i.e. right) side of the Cathedral.  The best spot for picture taking is on the south side between points 2 and 4– from about the statue of Joan of Arc to the confessionals– the procession starts from around point 13 and passes these points before turning at number 2 into the pews.  I recommend, getting there about 14:50 (2:30 pm) to stake your place to get the picture taking opportunities as the procession passes.

Floor Plan: Notre Dame de Paris

Just getting the best picture of the relics: This may be the easiest option.  Right now, remember to check out the link above, the ceremony ends at 16:15 (4:15 pm) at which time the Knights of the Holy Sepulcher and the priests return the relics to their diggs.  At about 4:00 position yourself in this area on South side just near the confessionals because the procession will exit right there within perhaps 20 feet (5 meters), marked on the above map.  This is your best camera position because a straight on shot is possible rather than the side angle shots.

Crown of Thorns

These options can be mixed and matched. If you are not seated in the pews when the ceremony begins you can enter after the relics have been placed on the alter.  Depending on the crowd you will want to do this sooner than later.  From what I saw the Knights started to stop people from getting in line around 30 minutes before the end of the ceremony.  Moreover, when you are done with your visit you can still set up at the confessionals to take your pictures as the procession passes.  Remember: No pictures are allowed inside of the seating area.

About the relics:

The Crown of Thorns was brought to Paris in 1239 by Louis IX because the Byzantine Emperor needed cash to help his waning Empire.  The price paid was about 3 times what it cost to build Sainte-ChappelIe.  The crown looks different than I expected in that it is simply a circulate of rushes (the same reeds that commonly make woven back chairs or baskets) void of any thorns, which surprised me as I had thought that the Roman soldiers spontaneously tore off some branches from a Jujube tree and joined the ends to make a ring that they used to crown Jesus.  According to the Catholic Encyclopedia the Roman soldiers wove this rush band, picked spines from a Jujube tree and stuck them through the wreath to make the crown.  I only learned this after seeing the relic up close and thinking that it looked more like a smooth skinny woven band than a torture device.  Appearently, Louis IX and his successors gave the thorns away as gifts.

The True Cross was discovered by St. Helen, the mother of Constantine, Rome’s first Christian Emperor, in 325 which was the same year that the Council of Nicaea convened in Turkey to calibrate Catholic beliefs.  St. Helen traveled to the Holy Land and luckily found the True Cross and the nails used to crucify Jesus.  There are a couple of stories that tell how St. Helen identified the Cross including its healing powers and another which said that it did not cast a shadow.  Since the time of St. Helen the Cross has been broken into parts and there are now a few chunks of it across Europe including the one in Notre Dame.

The Holy Nails were also found by St. Helen which she gave to her son; he used on in his battle helmet and the other as the bridle for his horse.  The third was supposedly tossed into the sea to calm a storm and has been lost.  Santa Croce in Rome was built to house St. Helen’s finds that she brought back from the Holy Land.  Today, there is still a nail housed in Santa Croce so what is said is that shavings have been taken of the other to spread the relic around and that is what is in Notre Dame, a shaving.

No matter if you are a casual observer, passivly religious or faithful visiting Notre Dame for the Veneration of the Crown of Thorns is worth your time.  Throughout Europe there are many holy relics but this is the only chance to get upclose and personal with a majot object of veneration that people in Paris have been visiting since Louis IX brought it to France in 1239.

An admirer kisses Oscar Wilde’s grave

By Chris–

While working through, and getting lost in Paris’s Cimetière du Père Lachaise, I finally found my destination after hearing the giggles of some young American girls who were about to leave their madness of kisses on Oscar Wilde’s grave.  This was a twist because the great author, playwrite and poet would have rather gotten kisses from young, swarthy and dangerous young men.  At least this irony was understood by the girls who laughed at their male companion when he asked if they thought if it would be okay for him to kiss the headstone.  “Actually”, one girl chuckled, “he may have liked that more.”  “Why?” he asked, and then he must have gotten it because his face turned as red as the lipstick.  “What did you get in that class again?” and “Go ahead, you may as well just kiss it now that you have my lipstick on” were what I heard as I walked off thinking that Oscar Wilde must have turned over in his grave.

In Shakespeare’s play Julius Caesar, Marc Anthony states, “The evil that men do lives after them whereas the good is oft interred with their bones.”  What he does not mention is that a person’s legacy, or what people do at their grave anyway, can be determined by obscure words, deeds or mere coincidences that may not have even registered with the popular voice during their lifetime, for example: the founder of the Roman Empire has a makeshift memorial maintained by small group that he did a favor for 2000 years ago.  A fisherman from Galilee met a carpenter, moved to the Caput Mundi, was executed, buried and literally has become the foundation of a church nation.  A man who preferred young and slender boys has his headstone consistently kissed by women.  Two philosophers who maintained that everything must be defined by the individual have their resting place covered with symbols even though their basic philosophy discourages symbolism.  Lastly, a rock star that burned quickly yet brightly may still haunt us today with more than his memory.

Julius Caesar:  Grave site: Rome, Italy- Roman Forum (cremated remains missing).

Julius Caesar invented the Roman Empire by doing what a modern captain of industry does: he created growth, ran an innovative marketing and PR campaign, successfully invested capital reserves and understood how to take care of his employees.  True, he was still stabbed 37 times with possibly the death blow being delivered by his son.  Surprisingly there is no grand monument dedicated to Caesar’s legacy.  Rather what exists is a piddly dirt mound in the Roman Forum that marks where he was cremated and where Marc Antony gave his funeral oration.  In ancient Rome this was where a temple stood for the Divine Caesar that housed his remains.  As with many buildings in the Forum the temple to the Divine Caesar was quarried, overgrown and forgotten about until the 1870s.  Today, the dirt mound is commonly covered with flowers that are usually put there by Rome’s Jewish community, which has never forgotten that Caesar allowed the practice of Judaism outside Palestine.  Also, on July 18, Julius Caesar’s birthday (July is named after him), Roman Jews decorate this spot and the statue of Caesar just outside the Forum.

Simon of Bethsaida (aka St. Peter):  Grave site: The Vatican

This fisherman from Palestine was told by Jesus, “you are my Rock and upon you I will build my Church”, which has literally happened.  Peter (i.e. rock in Greek) became Simon’s nickname, he then became Jesus’s stand-in (i.e.Vicar) on earth the first Pope.  After Jesus died, Peter moved to Rome and was there during the Great Fire of 64.  The Emperor Nero blamed this fire on the Christians which began the the Christian persecutions that lasted until 312, or 248 years.  Peter was arrested, crucified upside down and buried in a mass grave outside of Rome (i.e. the Vatican).  Christians immediately started visiting his grave, which in almost 2000 years has not stopped.  Since St. Peter’s death and burial in 67 there have been hundreds of millions of visitors, two major basilicas built over his grave and in 1929 the .44 sq km(0.17 sq mi) above and around his remains became an independent country.  Today the Vatican is ruled by Pope Benedict XVI who is the only absolute monarch in Europe.

Oscar Wilde:  Grave Site:  Paris, France- Cemetery Père Lachaise #83.

Oscar Wilde lived life on his own terms in spite of the constraints and consequences of Victorian era England.  The author of The Picture of Dorian Gray lived his last years in Paris before succumbing to cerebral meningitis.  Convicted of gross indecency in 1895, a piece of evidence that was used to convict him was a letter that he wrote to his lover Lord Alfred Douglas in which he talked about a “madness of kisses.”  This phrase, representing a glimpse into his passion that he paid two years of hard labor and imprisonment for, may be what has inspired the scores of pucker marks that are decorating or vandalizing the grave, depending on who is asked.  Originally, Wilde was buried outside Paris but he was moved to Pere Lachaise.  The monument was commissioned by one Bob Ross who asked that a compartment be created for his ashes which were interred in the monument in 1950.

Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beuvoir:  Grave site: Paris, France- Montparnasse Cemetary

Jean-Paul passed away in 1980 and his life partner Simone de Beuvoir followed him in 1986.  The basics of Sartre’s philosophy is that each person must define meaning for themselves.  Philosophically speaking Sartre was a fellow-traveler, which means that he may have agreed with a movement (i.e.Communist, Maoist, etc) but he would have never have officially joined any group.  During the turbulent 60s and 70s Sartre supported a number of Leftist movements including the French Maoists, which acted at times like Robinhood in that they stole from the rich (i.e. government) and distributed to the poor (i.e. workers).  One of these acts was inspired by a price hike for the Paris metro.  In response to this act, which directly impacted French workers, the group stole metro tickets and gave them away.  Sartre helped the Maoist cause by taking over its newspaper after the group’s leadership was arrested in 1970.  Today the grave of Sartre and de Beuvoir it is likely that some unused Metro tickets are on the grave which commemorate Sartre’s and de Beauvoir’s support of the French Maoists and perhaps of socialism and labor in general.  Notes are put on the grave for Simone de Beauvoir, the author of The Second Sex and who famously said, “one is not born a woman, but becomes one”.  The notes that I saw were written in a few languages including Arabic, English, Spanish and French.  The notes written in English, Spanish and French, the languages I could get the gist of, referenced a woman’s strength and thanked de Beauvoir for her inspiration.

Jim Morrison: Grave site: Paris, France- Cemetery Père Lachaise #30

The lead singer of the Doors died at just 27 years old after being in Paris for two months.  It is hard to believe that the Lizard King rose to fame and died in less than four years.  However, for the last 30 or so years his humble grave has seen and continues to see quite a lot of action. By some estimates the grave is the 4th most visited destination in Paris so it is consistently visited by camera carrying tourists, it has made cameo appearances in movies such as the 1991 Doors, Kate Moss and her boyfriend danced on it while singing Alabama Song, there are stories of seances, drugs, booze and the list goes on.  The grave has been vandalized, chipped at and has had its memorial bust of Morrison stolen.  Oh, did I mention that the site may be haunted?  In 2002 a Rock and Roll historian named Brett Meisner had a picture snapped of him, which later someone noticed that there seemed to be an apparition in the background.  Unfortunately, when I took the picture for this article I did not discover any background transparent dancers, but if you look closely it does seem that the rust on the headstone has made a face, that looks like Jim Morrison, maybe?  Even 37 years after his death this rock star still inspires hordes of fans to visit him, supermodels to dance on him while the whole time he just might be hanging around to enjoy the show.  

Père Lachaise greets about 1.5 million visitors a year and Morrison’s grave is definitely among the most popular.  If 50% of visitors to Pere Lachaise visit Morrison’s grave then it would be more visited than Elvis’s grave at Graceland which receives about 660,000 visitors per year. I recommend budgeting about two hours for the cemetery so you can get the most out of it.  However, if you are just there to visit Jim then 45 minutes should be sufficient.  There is no admission for either Père Lachaise or Montparnasse cemeteries. TRAVEL TIP:  There are no signs pointing to famous graves so when I was there I noticed quite a few people getting lost and confused, including myself.  I recommend taking a bunch of pictures of the master map when you enter and remember to include some with the list of names and their corresponding numbers.

Hello Travelers,

For those arriving in Paris this coming week-end (Sept 12-13) a certain added buzz might be noticed along with a few more logistical challenges because Pope Benedict XVI will be in town before going to Lourdes for the 150 year anniversary of the visions of the Virgin Mary.  Furthermore, it will be impossible to miss the more than 9,000 police and other security officers that the Interior Ministry announced will be on duty for the Pontiff’s visit.  For those arriving in Rome this weekend this means that there will not be a Papal Blessing in St. Peter’s Square on Sunday September 14, 2008.

According to the official agenda published by the Vatican Press office there will be a few opportunities to see the Pope in person during his Parisian visit.  Click through for the details on how catch the Pope and for critical logistical information that you should if you are visiting Paris on 12, 13 September 2008.

1. The Pope will be arriving at Notre Dame de Paris at around 7:15 pm after making a visit to Collège des Bernardins also in the Latin Quarter; he will be in the neighborhood from around 5:00pm  At 8:30 His Holiness is scheduled to greet the crowd outside Notre Dame for a brief address in Italian and French.  This audience will be limited to those already invited which is why Paris will set up 15 large screens along the Left Bank Quais.
2. The Pope will preside over a High Mass at the Esplande des Invalides which is about a ten to fifteen minute walk from the Eiffel Tower on a regular day.

Important logistical things to know and prepare for:

September 12, 2008:  Notre Dame / Left Bank Visit-

• Between approximately 6:45 and 7:00 pm the Pope will be traveling in the Popemobile to Notre Dame de Paris. 
• The following Metro Stops will be closed from 2:00 pm (14:00):  Cité, Saint-Michel, Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame et Cluny – La Sorbonne.
• Use these stops instead:  Odéon, Maubert-Mutualité, Jussieu, Pont-Marie, Châtelet.
• At Midnight there will be a “Procession of Light” at midnight from Notre-Dame cathedral to the Invalides.  The procession can be joined at any time.
• If you are planning on visiting Notre Dame on Friday 12 then make it your early stop as access will be limited after 2:00 pm.
• As mentioned there will be no access into Notre Dame Square but to the left is a map of where the 15 large screen monitors will be set up.  The green also approximates the rout the Pope will be following in his Popemobile.

September 13, 2008:  High Mass with the Pope on the Esplanade of Invalides-

• Between 150,000 and 200,000 people are expected so be prepared for a crowd
• The High Mass is at 10:00 am
• No ticket or inscription is necessary.  The Mass is free admission.
• Arrive before 8:30 am, I recommend shooting for about 8:00 am.
• The metro and RER will be working as usual but the “Invalides”, “Pont de l’Alma”, “Varenne”, and “La Tour-Maubourg” stops will be closed.  Instead use the closes stops.
• For security reasons luggage and large bags, knives, glass bottles, gas containers, large flags, banners, signs or notices and animals will not be allowed on the Esplanade.  Remember to leave that Swiss Army knife at the hotel.

Check www.papeaparis.org for further information at to check if the schedule has changed.

Happy Travels,

Chris

Over the years I have been on a lot of tours and I have frequently heard the same information about equestrian statues (i.e. statues of people on horses).  The spiel goes like this: “when one of the horse’s hooves is raised it indicates that the rider was wounded in battle, when both of the horse’s hooves are up it indicates that the rider was killed in battle and when all four hooves are on the ground, none of the above.”  For some time now I have known this myth to be false, yet I am surprised how many times and places this detail resurfaces.  It’s almost like there is a tour-guide Bible that is passed down by generations of tour-guides that is never questioned.  I am all for a good story and enjoy the fun facts that tour-guides have in their arsenal of knowledge, but this nugget of information is simply not true.

For the doubters here is a list six of the better known equestrian statues that do not conform to this rule.  If I had to make a guess as to why sculptors choose one pose over another I think that it is because they want to create dynamic pose to display their skill, or perhaps and more likely, they are just conforming with the style of the times as with Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s baroque statues of Louis XIV – reproduction in the Louvre square- and Constantine in St. Peter’s Basilica.  Represented are statues from the last 1800 years and from 4 countries, including the Vatican.  The oldest is the Marcus Aurelius reproduction in Rome ( the original circa 180 AD is a couple hundred meters away out of the elements) all the way up to the $2M Juan de Ornate statue in New Mexico dedicated in 2007.

Statue 1:

Marcus Aurelius

Title: Roman Emperor

Equestrian Pose: Front hove up (i.e. wounded in battle).

Location:  Rome, Italy;  Original statue located inside Capitoline Museums whereas the reproduction is in the middle of the square.

Explanation:  As a Roman Emperor of that age it was highly unlikely that Marcus Aurelius would have seen any up-close and personal action.  There is no writing about him being injured in battle.  Myth unlikely.

Statue 2:

Charlemagne

Title: Holy Roman Emperor

Location: Square in front of Notre Dame, Paris France

Equestrian Pose: Front hove up (i.e. wounded in battle).

Explanation:  Charlemagne saw quite a bit of action but I was able to find no report of his being wounded in battle.  Myth unlikely.

Statue 3:

Constantine

Title:  Roman Emperor

Location: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican

Equestrian Pose: Both front legs up (i.e. died in battle).

Explanation:  However uncommon it may have been for a Roman Emperor, especially between 200 and 400 AD to die of natural causes, Constantine did.  Myth false.

Louis XIV

Title: King of France- The Sun King

Location:  Original at Versailles and reproduction in square at Louvre.

Equestrian Pose: Both front legs up (i.e. died in battle).

Explanation:  The Sun King died of gangrene at when he was 77.  Myth false.

Statue 5:

Andrew Jackson

Title: US President

Location: Washington, DC

Equestrian Pose: Both front legs up (i.e. died in battle).

Explanation:  Jackson has the distinction of being the only US President to kill a man in a duel and he did have a musket ball in his chest which gave him a terrible cough but his cause of death was tuberculosis which he succumbed to at age 78.  Myth false.

Statue 6:

Juan de Ornate

Title: called by some, “The Last Conquistador” 

Location: El Paso International Airport

Equestrian Pose: Both front legs up (i.e. died in battle).

Explanation:  The most recent of my examples was only finished in 2007 and is considered to be largest and heaviest bronze equestrian statue in existence.  However, the myth still does not hold in that Ornate passed away in Spain having nothing to do with battle injuries.

Granted, there are only six examples that do not hold up to myth and at times I am sure that coincidentally some horses’ hooves match up with their rider’s demise, but this tour tid-bit is for the bin.

Happy Travels,

Chris