Angels & Demons, Dan Brown’s book about a plot to destroy the Vatican, has been made into an international blockbuster movie starring Tom Hanks.  For over 10 years tourists in Rome have been supplementing their guidebooks with this story that features six of Rome’s most famous sites including the Vatican, Pantheon, Piazza Navona and numerous artworks by Bernini, one of Rome’s most famous artists.  Even if you are not a fan of or familiar with the book the explanations of the sites themselves provide a through overview of Rome at a fraction of the cost of a tour guide or book.

The story is about a secret society called the Illuminati that have reemerged after plotting for centuries to annihilate the Catholic Church.  The yarn winds through the streets of Rome as Harvard Professor Robert Langdon races to find a mega bomb planted somewhere in the Vatican by following a secret path called the Path of Illumination which is marked by some of Bernini’s greatest masterpieces.  Besides being a good story, Angels & Demons is a chance to visit some of Rome’s less famous churches and learn more about Catholic symbolism.

For only $2.99 on the iTunes Store you can download this app that provides all the history of the people and places while recommending some of Rome’s best gelato, pizza and restaurants that are nearby to each point of interest.  To save you the pain of a ridiculous bill for data charges we have provided an offline map in the app but we also recommend just grabbing a free paper map in Rome.

Have fun, enjoy your tour and please don’t hesitate to drop us a line to let us know what you think.

The short answer: NO.

When visiting Naples and the rest of the South of Italy you can do better things with your time and money than traveling to Capri to see the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), especially if  that is your sole intention for visiting Capri .  Yes, this Roman Emperor private swimming hole has breathtaking and unexpected color, but you will be ferried in and out so quickly that you will not have any time to soak it in.  The 11€50 admission charge buys a short and cramped boat trip through a cave that while beautiful is simply a waste of money.

Capri has a breathtaking coastline and cliffs that for centuries have been admired and for a short time during the reign of Tiberius (AD 17-34) feared ( he used to like to toss people down to the jagged shore.)  Today, Capri still attracts emperors of sorts as evidenced by the private ships like Limitless (owned by Victoria Secrets boss Leslie Wexner) that commonly circle the island.  No, there was no Adriana Lima sightings, unfortunately.

If you still decide to visit, knock yourself out.  I recommend giving the Blue Grotto a miss, but you will still see some very comparable caves and water colors on your tour around the island.

Here is an idea of the base costs for a day trip from Naples:

• Ferry:  €11-18 each way
• Boat trip around island (Blue Grotto not included): €14
• Admission to Blue Grotto: €11,50
• Total: minimum €47,50 per person or 8 pizzas at Sorbillos in Naples
• Food is about 2x to 3x more expensive than in Naples
• Limitless purchase price when you get yacht rich, more than $100,000,000
• Cost of renting a yacht like the Limitless $500,000 weekly

So, Capri is not a budget destination but now you something to look forward when you strike it yacht rich.

If you are planning a trip to anyplace near Naples then check out hostelsofnaples.com or if you want to enhance your adventure in the authentic Italy, just reserve at Bella Capri and let them help you plan the rest of your trip when you get there.  The secrets of Ischia, the Limoncello of Sorrento and Amalfi and so many more surprises are waiting to be explored and introduced to you by the proud partners of Hostels of Naples.

In the Gulf of Naples in 6 B.C the Emperor Augustus traded the island of Ischia for Capri.  This swap still resonates today as the island that gained Imperial favor, Capri, remains popular and the other, Ischia, continues to be fairly unknown.  In fact, if you were to ask someone from Ischia about Capri the response would most likely be that Capri is good for a day trip while staying on Ischia, which has so much more to offer.  Over the centuries Ischia has been ruled by occupying armies, countries, pirates and ruling families; however, in spite of its shaky political and natural history it remains faithful to its Greek and Italian roots.  Today the rocky island has a population of about 60,000 that is divided among five towns with the two largest being Ischia Town and Forio. Once on the island, Ischia Town has the most nightlife and shopping while the quieter Forio provides a quaint and relaxing atmosphere.

My wife and I spent four days during the end of May on this island that has remarkable beauty, warm days and crisp nights, whitewashed buildings with blue trim, great food, and friendly people that are proud of their history and island.  Our days were activity filled with swimming, driving the scooter around to the island’s attractions, hiking Mount Epomeo and soaking in the many hot springs while our evenings were spent relaxing and eating the local dishes. As two very independent travelers with vastly different requirements for a relaxing getaway, Ischia satisfied us both as it offers good and unique food plus plenty of activities.  And our enjoyment was compounded because our hosts delivered superior hospitality and a clean place to stay.  Ischia could be precisely what you need if traveling with friends, as a couple, with a family or if you are just looking for a quiet and easy to reach escape from a noisy city hopping grind.

Getting to and around Ischia:

We departed from Naples on a hydrofoil (€18 each way) and within a little over an hour we reached Forio, which is smaller than Iscia Town but with plenty to do and is easy to access the rest of the island. Rather than dealing with public transportation we rented a scooter for €25 per day as it allowed us to set our own schedule.  Although, with the windy roads, fast cars, faster scooters and hills a scooter is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced so a car rental might be a better option- they were not much more than the scooters.  In talking to other travelers we were told that the buses were timely, cheap and adequately got them around.

Where to stay:

We stayed at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is a Colella Family property.  Amerigo, one of the Colella sons, picked us up at the port, brought us to our apartment, recommend things to do on the island, arranged our scooter, transported to and from their restaurant and then finally dropped us off at the port.  From Papa Salvatore and Mama Tina to the three brothers Giuseppe, Amerigo and Lorenzo this clan delivers their promise of family hospitality and as a consequence they provide an authentic Italian experience. From cooking lessons with Mama Tina to learning how to make limoncello with Papa Salvatore to each of the brothers zooming between all their properties to look after the guests the Colella Family provides a truly unique opportunity to learn, rest and enjoy Ischia.

Depending on your preferences the Colellas have three different and distinct accommodation options.

A traditional hotel: Poggio del Sole is on the same land that Salvatore’s and Tina’s respective families owned before they married so in a way it is the land that grew the family.  Each room has its own bathroom and balcony with a sea view and some rooms even have a kitchenette and two balconies.  It is located just above the family restaurant La Casereccia so meals are an easy commute.  The hotel is a good choice if you are looking for a quite get-away.  Poggio del Sole is in a neighborhood that makes it impractical to walk to the port so if you stay here you will want to factor in transportation.

View from patio at Rotonda sul Mare

Apartments and rooms: We chose to stay at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is located on the sea and is a 20 minute stroll from Forio and even less to some bars (in the Italian sense) and restaurants.  Keep in mind that many European beaches are rocky but approximately 300 meters away there is a sandy beach.  From June to September a deck is set up so you can sunbathe right on the water and as of May 2009 there are plans to install a beach bar.  With a few levels of patios, the beautiful sunsets and easy water access we loved the location.  The interiors of the rooms are basic, but very clean and spacious. My wife normally prefers a luxurious feeling room but she found this very comfortable and I had no complaints.

The hostel: Ring hostel is a standard hostel that offers more atmosphere than amenities.  This is one of those places where if the walls could talk, goodness knows what they would say. But as luck would have it the walls do talk in that travelers have been using them as a guest book since Ring Hostel was opened in 2005.

The food: Forio had many tasty restaurants, but our experience was tainted due to one tourist trap.  To start positively, the hotel Poggio del Sole is connected to the family restaurant, La Casereccia, which everyone should try.  It has a traditional wood burning pizza oven and they serve many of their homemade products including Papa Salvatore’s limoncello and prune juice.  La Casereccia is a restaurant where you can “si mangia bene” and stay on budget.  One of the most outstanding dishes that we had was the octopus salad (insalata di polpo).  It is an Ischia specialty so it will be on the menu most places.  In Ischia this salad is prepared by adding some small cut-up octopi with oil, lemon and a few other garden ingredients that results in a simple and tasty appetizer.

Just down the beach from the La Rotonda sul Mar is a string of restaurants that all seem to be about the same.  We chose one at random and ended up being pleasantly surprised. The name is called L’Ancora and it is really not that much to look at but it does have an extension on the beach, which met our single criterion for that meal.  We ordered a frutti del mare pizza complete with octopus, mussels and anchovies and it was fresh and tasty while not being too fishy.  But the real treat was a bruschetta panino that they make with their homemade pizza dough.  I thought that I had seen all variations of the bruschetta but this was a stand out by being served on pizza dough. L’Ancora is a good bet for the restaurants along that strip.

Sometimes the problem with traveling off-season is that many of the places that heavily target tourists will not be opened or in full swing.  Indeed, the port of Forio on a Tuesday night at the end of May was pretty empty. Unfortunately we settled for the restaurant called La Romantica di Porto Francesco because it at least had a few other guests.  When we arrived the waiter seemed nice enough.  He recommended a decent bottle of Greco di Tufo (we found the table white wine on Ischia to be pretty poor) and walked us through the menu making a couple reasonable recommendations.  Then he pulled what I call an “off menu” stunt which is when a waiter suggests a “special dish” that is not on the menu, so there is no price. In this instance although we insisted we were not all that hungry the waiter heartily insisted that we had to try the specialty of the house. As seasoned travelers we know to ask the price – but didn’t as the waiter seemed pleasant and we were feeling comfortable.  In the end we paid as it was way too much food and had a price 2-3 times any other appetizer on the menu. We disputed the bill when it came but the waiter said we had agreed to it. Instead of making a scene we paid and left with another traveler rule more ingrained in our minds.  The lesson is always the same: insist on knowing the price before ordering and when you hear, “I have something special for you” or “don’t worry about it I will make you a special price” most likely you are about to get taken.  It is no surprise that this little scam and overcooked pasta ruined the evening; the wine was decent and a real steal at only 50% the price of the appetizer.

What to do: Hike to the top of the Island:  The hike to the top of Mount Epomeo is easy but strenuous. The hike took us about 45 minutes to an hour but the view from the top alone makes it worth the hike. The hike can get a bit hot so try to do it in the morning. It is strange to think hike and then automatically think food, but there are three places to eat along the way: one at the very bottom, another hidden in the woods about 25% of the way up and another at the very top.

Hunters' rabbit is an Ischia specialty

After the hike we stayed on the top for some cold water and a snack at the restaurant that looked like a mud hut but had, as you might imagine, an excellent view.  My wife sampled the bruschetta, which was a pile of tomatoes and basil bathed in tasty olive oil set on a garlicky half loaf of toasted Italian bread.  I went for the specialty of the region that I discovered while hiking up when I saw a few playful signs advertising coniglio alla cacciatore, translated hunter’s rabbit.  Fortunately, I ordered the coniglio because it was easily the best rabbit that I have ever eaten and among some of the best dishes that I have ever tasted.  It was served in a thick but not too heavy tomato sauce with roasted red bell peppers, onions, garlic along with some white wine, salt, pepper and a few family secrets.  For those that have not tried rabbit the taste is not particularly strong or gamey but has the taste of fowl dark meat with a texture of duck so it is not stringy like chicken.  However, in this recipe the rabbit is smothered in so much sauce that the natural flavor is in a supporting rather than starring role. The pasta dishes that we saw come out were also plentiful, actually enough for two.  Our bill totaled €39.00 with the €18.00 rabbit being the lion’s share of the bill with the bruschetta, salad and half liter of wine making up the difference.  It was an excellent meal and experience- highly recommended.

Negombo: One reason why Augustus decided to trade Ischia was because of the risk of severe volcanic activity was too great to invest building an imperial palace or even spending time there.  But it is exactly all of that activity that creates all of the thermal springs that makes Ischia such a find.  Negombo is a thermal bath park that is one of the best places that we have found while traveling.  We are not a sit on the beach type couple so we appreciated the opportunity to visit the 25 different thermal pools that the resort offers. With everything from hot and cold dips, to Turkish baths, to a variety of heated pools in addition to one of the nicest beaches we saw on Ischia, it is an excellent way for anyone to spend the day.

We spent an enjoyable day trying all of the pools, returning to the ones we liked best, eating lunch and swimming in the ocean. Our favorite was the water cascades that drop water from various heights that when you stand under the water stream it actually gives you a pretty thorough and effective massage. The cost of entry was €29 per person which might not be in everyone’s budget, but both of us felt that it was well worth it as we spent 6 hours jumping from pool to pool. If you decide to go – bring your own towel, a pair of shoes you don’t mind getting wet, and careful of the sun – all that jumping from pool to pool wipes off any sunscreen. Another note is that if you plan on going here to be sure and ask the reception at your hotel for discount coupons which will save you €3 per ticket.

Baia di Sorgeto: Nestled into a small bay and just off the beach are a few warm water pockets that are like hot tubs in the sea.  Also known for the mud that is dredged from around the area, which is used for an all-natural facial this is a worthwhile destination.  Baia di Sorgeto can be reached by bus, taxi, on your own, boat or water taxi from Sant’Angelo.  The rocky beach is not very comfortable but there are lounges to be rented for about €15 and the bar / restaurant is very reasonable.  The mud can be bought either by the jar, or when we were the bar was selling it by the mask.  At times this place can be infested with jellyfish thus making the pools inaccessible.  To avoid this have your hotel receptionist call La Sorgente, the bar / restaurant only meters away, and ask for a jellyfish report.  Phone number: 081.907837.  Nothing would be worse than traveling across Ischia to Baia di Sorgento only to descend the 200 something stairs and learn that the sparkling in the water is really sacs of stinging plasma.

Nitrodi: These sulfur springs have been in use since ancient Romans visited Ischia.  We stopped by and gave them a look but decided against going in because the whole area was not inviting plus the €9 frankly did not seem worth it.  We would recommend this if Baia di Sorgento is infested with jellyfish but on its own with a limited time or financial budget we recommend giving this a miss.

Sant’ Angelo: This fishing village is on the itinerary of every organized tour in Ischia.  The main draw is the beauty created by the isthmus- also a sandy beach- that connects the mainland to a small dot of land that is now covered with hotels.  Sant’ Angelo is great for walking around because they severely limit motor traffic all over town so you are not being constantly buzzed by cars and omnipresent scooters. There is a cluster of bars and cafés on the mainland that are not terribly expensive and there are a lot of shops, with typical tourist stuff in addition too some pretty fun boutiques.  We found that Sant’Angelo was perfect for a light lunch or drink but not worth spending an entire afternoon that is unless you are there for the beach.

After our four days on Ischia we were completely relaxed and recharged. Aside from the “off menu” incident, which could have taken place anywhere, Ischia was a very worthwhile destination.  We felt that we could have stayed a couple more days so now we just have to figure out how to go back!

Where to stay: The Colella Family www.hotelpoggiodelsole.it  or for Ring Hostel www.ringhostel.com  They waill also be able to set up the apartment or room rental at Rotona sul Mar.

Where to eat: At the top of Mount Epomeo, La Casereccia (The Colella Family
restaurant)

Food and drink: Coniglio della Cacciatore; Rucolino is the local liqueur made out of arugula and tastes like Jagermeister; octopus salad; paccheri pasta (large round tubes) with mussels and pecorino.

Where to go: Negombo, Baia di Sorgeto, Sant’ Angelo, Mount Epomeo

Cooking classes: Contact La Casereccia www.lacasereccia.com to inquire about cooking classes and other classes that the Colella Family provides.

When to go: The busy, busy season is in August when the island is full of Europeans.  April – June and Sept – October will still have great weather but Ischia will be quieter.  The benefit of going during the busy season is that everything will be open and there will be a lot more nightlife options.  However, we are more early and late season travelers so we did not mind the fewer options in exchange for no crowds.  While Ischia may be fairly untrodden by English speaking travelers it is not a secret to Germans and Asians so expect to share the island with them no matter when you decide to visit.

The corner: Via Vicenza / Via Palestro- Exit Termini Station at Track 1
(with the train tracks at your back, track 1 is on the right hand side of the station). Make a left on Via Marsala, and then take your first right down Via Vicenza. Continue down Via Vicenza, until you reach #42 (on the left side of the street).

The hostels / youth hotels: Hostel Alessandoro Palace and Yellow Youth Hotel

Budget hotel: Hotel Romae, Des Artistes (not on the corner but about 2 minutes away).

The restaurants: Leoni D’ Abruzzo- 44 Via Vicenza ( right next to Hostel Alessando). Recommendations: grilled calamari, penne al salmone, bucatini all’ Amatriciana. Mamma Angela- Via Palestro 53 (across the street from Yellow and right next to Hotel Romae). Pizzeria del Secolo- Via Palestro 62. Pizza by weight. We recommend trying the pizza with shrimp and a ranch like dressing, if they have it. Rossi Bar- Via Vicenza 23. Perfect for cappuccino, espresso, freshly squeezed orange juice and other drinks. Like with other bars / cafes in Rome there is a charge to sit down so drink at the bar.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/01/28/a-budget-oasis-in-rome/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2008/11/04/girls-gone-wilde-morrisons-ghost-and-other-grave-things/ http://ikangaroo.com/2008/11/04/girls-gone-wilde-morrisons-ghost-and-other-grave-things/#comments Tue, 04 Nov 2008 22:06:01 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1029

An admirer kisses Oscar Wilde’s grave

By Chris–

While working through, and getting lost in Paris’s Cimetière du Père Lachaise, I finally found my destination after hearing the giggles of some young American girls who were about to leave their madness of kisses on Oscar Wilde’s grave.  This was a twist because the great author, playwrite and poet would have rather gotten kisses from young, swarthy and dangerous young men.  At least this irony was understood by the girls who laughed at their male companion when he asked if they thought if it would be okay for him to kiss the headstone.  “Actually”, one girl chuckled, “he may have liked that more.”  “Why?” he asked, and then he must have gotten it because his face turned as red as the lipstick.  “What did you get in that class again?” and “Go ahead, you may as well just kiss it now that you have my lipstick on” were what I heard as I walked off thinking that Oscar Wilde must have turned over in his grave.

In Shakespeare’s play Julius Caesar, Marc Anthony states, “The evil that men do lives after them whereas the good is oft interred with their bones.”  What he does not mention is that a person’s legacy, or what people do at their grave anyway, can be determined by obscure words, deeds or mere coincidences that may not have even registered with the popular voice during their lifetime, for example: the founder of the Roman Empire has a makeshift memorial maintained by small group that he did a favor for 2000 years ago.  A fisherman from Galilee met a carpenter, moved to the Caput Mundi, was executed, buried and literally has become the foundation of a church nation.  A man who preferred young and slender boys has his headstone consistently kissed by women.  Two philosophers who maintained that everything must be defined by the individual have their resting place covered with symbols even though their basic philosophy discourages symbolism.  Lastly, a rock star that burned quickly yet brightly may still haunt us today with more than his memory.

Julius Caesar:  Grave site: Rome, Italy- Roman Forum (cremated remains missing).

Julius Caesar invented the Roman Empire by doing what a modern captain of industry does: he created growth, ran an innovative marketing and PR campaign, successfully invested capital reserves and understood how to take care of his employees.  True, he was still stabbed 37 times with possibly the death blow being delivered by his son.  Surprisingly there is no grand monument dedicated to Caesar’s legacy.  Rather what exists is a piddly dirt mound in the Roman Forum that marks where he was cremated and where Marc Antony gave his funeral oration.  In ancient Rome this was where a temple stood for the Divine Caesar that housed his remains.  As with many buildings in the Forum the temple to the Divine Caesar was quarried, overgrown and forgotten about until the 1870s.  Today, the dirt mound is commonly covered with flowers that are usually put there by Rome’s Jewish community, which has never forgotten that Caesar allowed the practice of Judaism outside Palestine.  Also, on July 18, Julius Caesar’s birthday (July is named after him), Roman Jews decorate this spot and the statue of Caesar just outside the Forum.

Simon of Bethsaida (aka St. Peter):  Grave site: The Vatican

This fisherman from Palestine was told by Jesus, “you are my Rock and upon you I will build my Church”, which has literally happened.  Peter (i.e. rock in Greek) became Simon’s nickname, he then became Jesus’s stand-in (i.e.Vicar) on earth the first Pope.  After Jesus died, Peter moved to Rome and was there during the Great Fire of 64.  The Emperor Nero blamed this fire on the Christians which began the the Christian persecutions that lasted until 312, or 248 years.  Peter was arrested, crucified upside down and buried in a mass grave outside of Rome (i.e. the Vatican).  Christians immediately started visiting his grave, which in almost 2000 years has not stopped.  Since St. Peter’s death and burial in 67 there have been hundreds of millions of visitors, two major basilicas built over his grave and in 1929 the .44 sq km(0.17 sq mi) above and around his remains became an independent country.  Today the Vatican is ruled by Pope Benedict XVI who is the only absolute monarch in Europe.

Oscar Wilde:  Grave Site:  Paris, France- Cemetery Père Lachaise #83.

Oscar Wilde lived life on his own terms in spite of the constraints and consequences of Victorian era England.  The author of The Picture of Dorian Gray lived his last years in Paris before succumbing to cerebral meningitis.  Convicted of gross indecency in 1895, a piece of evidence that was used to convict him was a letter that he wrote to his lover Lord Alfred Douglas in which he talked about a “madness of kisses.”  This phrase, representing a glimpse into his passion that he paid two years of hard labor and imprisonment for, may be what has inspired the scores of pucker marks that are decorating or vandalizing the grave, depending on who is asked.  Originally, Wilde was buried outside Paris but he was moved to Pere Lachaise.  The monument was commissioned by one Bob Ross who asked that a compartment be created for his ashes which were interred in the monument in 1950.

Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beuvoir:  Grave site: Paris, France- Montparnasse Cemetary

Jean-Paul passed away in 1980 and his life partner Simone de Beuvoir followed him in 1986.  The basics of Sartre’s philosophy is that each person must define meaning for themselves.  Philosophically speaking Sartre was a fellow-traveler, which means that he may have agreed with a movement (i.e.Communist, Maoist, etc) but he would have never have officially joined any group.  During the turbulent 60s and 70s Sartre supported a number of Leftist movements including the French Maoists, which acted at times like Robinhood in that they stole from the rich (i.e. government) and distributed to the poor (i.e. workers).  One of these acts was inspired by a price hike for the Paris metro.  In response to this act, which directly impacted French workers, the group stole metro tickets and gave them away.  Sartre helped the Maoist cause by taking over its newspaper after the group’s leadership was arrested in 1970.  Today the grave of Sartre and de Beuvoir it is likely that some unused Metro tickets are on the grave which commemorate Sartre’s and de Beauvoir’s support of the French Maoists and perhaps of socialism and labor in general.  Notes are put on the grave for Simone de Beauvoir, the author of The Second Sex and who famously said, “one is not born a woman, but becomes one”.  The notes that I saw were written in a few languages including Arabic, English, Spanish and French.  The notes written in English, Spanish and French, the languages I could get the gist of, referenced a woman’s strength and thanked de Beauvoir for her inspiration.

Jim Morrison: Grave site: Paris, France- Cemetery Père Lachaise #30

The lead singer of the Doors died at just 27 years old after being in Paris for two months.  It is hard to believe that the Lizard King rose to fame and died in less than four years.  However, for the last 30 or so years his humble grave has seen and continues to see quite a lot of action. By some estimates the grave is the 4th most visited destination in Paris so it is consistently visited by camera carrying tourists, it has made cameo appearances in movies such as the 1991 Doors, Kate Moss and her boyfriend danced on it while singing Alabama Song, there are stories of seances, drugs, booze and the list goes on.  The grave has been vandalized, chipped at and has had its memorial bust of Morrison stolen.  Oh, did I mention that the site may be haunted?  In 2002 a Rock and Roll historian named Brett Meisner had a picture snapped of him, which later someone noticed that there seemed to be an apparition in the background.  Unfortunately, when I took the picture for this article I did not discover any background transparent dancers, but if you look closely it does seem that the rust on the headstone has made a face, that looks like Jim Morrison, maybe?  Even 37 years after his death this rock star still inspires hordes of fans to visit him, supermodels to dance on him while the whole time he just might be hanging around to enjoy the show.  

Père Lachaise greets about 1.5 million visitors a year and Morrison’s grave is definitely among the most popular.  If 50% of visitors to Pere Lachaise visit Morrison’s grave then it would be more visited than Elvis’s grave at Graceland which receives about 660,000 visitors per year. I recommend budgeting about two hours for the cemetery so you can get the most out of it.  However, if you are just there to visit Jim then 45 minutes should be sufficient.  There is no admission for either Père Lachaise or Montparnasse cemeteries. TRAVEL TIP:  There are no signs pointing to famous graves so when I was there I noticed quite a few people getting lost and confused, including myself.  I recommend taking a bunch of pictures of the master map when you enter and remember to include some with the list of names and their corresponding numbers.

I do not know if you have been to the Vatican lately or are heading there but chances are that you will be or have been accosted by numerous tour-guides trying to sell their knowledge and story telling ability for a few Euros.  This business model has been around for a some years and has allowed many a traveler to make a Euro or two by guiding tourists through the Vatican, which in itself may not that be all that bad but these guides who a week or two earlier may not have known the difference between a priest and nun, usually just regurgitate what they heard from another guide who has since burned out after a month and moved on to something else.  Of course, misinformation is not only on these tour-guides but due to the enormous amount of people they put through on their “free” tours their misinformation spreads faster than a giggle at a slumber party so in the spirit of keeping them and other tour-guides honest let’s either confirm or bust this myth.

Tour Myth:  Michelangelo Buonarotti, of Sistine Chapel, David and Moses fame who at one time was the main architect of St. Peter’s Basilica designed the Swiss Guards’ uniform.  Click through to find out the answer.

This is a tough tour myth to debunk because it is so believable.  It does seem plausible that the Pope would want his guards snazzily dressed in a manner suitable to be around the Vicar of Christ and that he would entrust the project to his favorite artist, Michelangelo.  I first heard this myth on my first visit to Rome in 1987 and my tour-guide did not hustle us into a free tour and he was the type of person to fact-check plus he had even studied Latin in Rome under the famed Reggie Foster.  Nevertheless, he told us the same story about the Swiss Guards starting at their being hired by Julius II in 1506, massacred in 1527, must be Swiss, Catholic and oh…their colorful uniforms were designed by Michelangelo, which was the one nugget that our whole tour group really latched onto.  Later at dinner I remember a conversation among some of the senior members of my group about how fantastic Michelangelo must have been to do all that he did AND he designed those colorful uniforms, “even if they do make those boys look like court jesters.”

My theory of this myth’s genesis: Branding, plain and simple.  Michelangelo is a big name and anything becomes more interesting and valuable if it is associated with him.  So, perhaps without tourists believing that he designed the uniforms the Swiss Guards would be thought of as dressed silly and out of date for no reason.

Commandant Jules Repond designed the modern Swiss Guard uniform

The real story: The modern Swiss Guard uniform was designed in 1914 by Commandant Jules Repond, who the Vatican’s website states was “exceptionally gifted with fine taste in colors and shapes.”  As any good designer,  Jules studied past fashions and was inspired by some of Rapheal’s frescoes.  Therefore, it seems that the “inspiration” for the uniform actually came from Michelangelo’s rival Raphael.  This is not to say that Raphael designed the uniforms either, which is commonly said about the blue uniform.  Furthermore, I have not been able to find any direct source that links Michelangelo with these uniforms.  And since Michelangelo’s life was pretty well documented and he kept extensive notes it is likely that some evidence would be easily found.  Even the Vatican’s official website states that, “it would seem rather that he [Michelangelo] had nothing to do with it [the uniforms].”  Therefore, I declare this myth busted and false.  Sorry Michelangelo but you will just have to hope that your David and Creation of Adam will keep you relevant.

Some facts about the Swiss Guard uniform:

• It is made up of around 154 pieces of fabric and take about 30 hours to assemble
• The uniform weighs 8 lbs ( 3.57 kilos)
• The official Swiss Guards’ tailor is named Ety Cicioni and when he was given the job in 1997 there was no pattern for the uniform so he and his wife had to reverse engineer the 154 pieces
• There are a number of uniforms but the colorful ones that get the most attention are the ceremonial uniforms which carry on the Medici colors.  Usually these guards can be seen –facing St. Peter’s Basilica– to the right guarding the entrance to some administrative offices and to the left (all the way to the Basilica near the post office) guarding an entrance to where the tour of the underground of St. Peter’s originates.  The other blue and more sober uniforms can usually be seen heading either to or from the Basilica in the direction of the Vatican Museums.
• The Guards do get to keep a uniform when they leave the service but are only allowed to wear them at official Swiss Guard reunions.  So no you will not catch them around Rome in their uniforms.

There we have it Michelangelo did not design the Swiss Guard uniform, but there is still a great story and tradition that goes along with it!

Happy Travels,

Chris

Ciao Travelers!

With such a massive amount of information about Italy, researching can be overwhelming so why not just absorb a bit at a time?  That’s the angle that Unabellavista’s new widget called Do you love Italy? is taking.  The Unabellavista widget pipes in daily tips about Italian food, art and language.  Developed by Unabellavista and recently launched, Do you love Italy? can be added to most social networking profiles to deliver daily helpings of inspiration, travel tips or just Italia-nostalgia.  So now, when logging onto Facebook you can learn how to avoid making those pesky cliche mistakes such as ordering a cappuccino after 11:00am or covering your linguine and clams with a mound of Parmesan cheese.  Yes, there is a reason why Italians don’t put Parmesan cheese on the table when you are eating seafood, but you’ll have to get the Do you love Italy ? widget to learn why.

To check out the Do you love Italy widget, click here!

Happy Travels,

Chances are that you have never heard of the small Italian towns called Qualiano, Giugliano, Marigliano, Pianura or Acerra, however you have probably seen them on the news buried under a pile of garbage. While each of these cities is between 10 and 23 kilometers outside Naples, a lot of the media reporting about the garbage crisis are lumping all of them under a common name, Naples. For over a year the media have pumped pictures, videos and stories about Naples and its rubbish problem, but now some of the city’s hoteliers want you to know that the problem is outside of Naples.

Not since the Grand Tour (1660s -1840s) has Naples been on the radar of most travelers other then serving as a base for exploring Pompei or a place to catch the ferry to Capri. So when it is not clarified exactly where the garbage is stacking up, tourists seem to be assuming that Naples proper is buried, so they are giving the city a miss which is having a negative impact on the emerging tourist community. Click through for map.

According to Alfredo Cefalo who owns two budget hotels in Naples, “THERE IS NO TRASH IN NAPLES!” He goes on the state that “it is undeniable that the outer Napoli (the interland) is facing a problem, but it is not that tourists come to Napoli and go to see Marigliano, Giugliano, Qualiano, right? This unreliable news is deeply damaging the image of this great city, and it’s also giving a stab at our businesses.” This sentiment is reinforced by the owner of Hostel of the Sun, Luca, who states, “they collect the rubbish everyday here and what they actually showing on tv and [in the] newspapers are the suburbs out of Napoli , anyway the things are getting better there too.” Ironically, Alfredo may be a little wrong in that a tour called SpazzaTour (Trash Tour) has been created and posted on YouTube, which clearly shows that the garbage is in the suburbs. Actually SpazzaTour is just a van that is carrying journalists from heap to heap, not something that you can book. Search “spazzatour” on Youtube for examples, many are in Italian.

To help you get a better understanding of where the main problem we created a map which clearly indicates that the trash is outside Naples. If you were thinking about visiting Naples don’t let all the news dissuade you everything is up, going and there are plenty of people waiting to greet you!

Of course Pompeii is not a problem area but we added it to show that the trash problem is not there either.

* Denotes where trash problem is most serious.

For over 2700 years Rome has been the stage of countless important events. Walking through Rome, one could wonder about past residents that have walked its well trodden streets, the palaces, which once housed royalty, but are now ignored and the historic and oftentimes violent events that happened in the very spots on which an uninformed tourist might be standing, questioning, “why are there so many cats in Rome?” We’ve identified 10 infamous crime scenes where the offenses committed have had a lasting impact, most of the time, on Western culture. Click through for videos.

1. 753 BC, Remus: According to the legend of the founding of Rome, the twin brothers Romulus and Remus each had a dream about where a city should be founded. Romulus’ dream designated the Palatine Hill and Remus’ designated the Aventine Hill. On April 21, 753BC the brothers squared off with the result being Romulus killing his brother and founding his city on what later became the spot where the Emperors called home. Remus’s hill, the Aventine, became Rome’s slums because of its association with the losing brother. We designated the base of the Palatine Hill as the place where Remus was killed to give credit to the winning brother.
2. 163 BC, Tiberius Gracchus: This champion of the people met his death in the Roman Forum. Tiberius Gracchus died during a riot between groups fighting over the distribution of land to soldiers. That day, according to Plutarch, three hundred men were killed along with Tiberius – none with a metal instrument, which means that they were all clubbed to death. This is important because Tiberius Gracchus’ death is considered by many to be the end of the Roman Republic. To this day he is a symbol of the disenfranchised.
3. 44 BC, Julius Caesar: This was probably the most famous assignation that ever took place. Where there is now a tram stop, there was once the entrance to the Theater of Pompey, which was where the Roman Senate met on March 15, 44 BC. An interesting twist of irony is that there is nothing that commemorates where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Julius Caesar founded the Roman Empire. Notes on the accompanying video from HBO via Youtube. This is a pretty good representation of the event. Of course the end does not have the famous quote, “Et tu Brute” but Caesar seems communicate that with his eyes. Also, in terms of physical resemblance, the historical Caesar was blond and balding.
4. 64, St. Peter: The Vicar of Christ was living in Rome when the Great Fire of 064 destroyed a large part of the city. Nero, the Emperor at the time, accused the Christians of starting the fire; Peter being among the accused. The murders of theses early Christians took place near to where the Vatican City is today. Tradition holds that Peter asked to be crucified upside down because he did not want to die in the same manner as Jesus. Today in the middle of St. Peter’s Square there is an Egyptian obelisk that is fabled to have been present in the circus when St. Peter was killed. The obelisk has been moved a few hundred meters to the N/E to where it currently stands. This event and the subsequent burial is the whole reason for the existence of St. Peter’s Basilica.
5. 268, St. Valentine: This Roman priest, for whom the Valentine’s Day is named, was supposedly clubbed to death after continuing to perform marriage ceremonies contrary to the Emperor’s mandate. Today his skull can be seen in the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin.
6. 1500, Giordano Bruno: Considered by some to be the first martyr for science, his notions about infinity and multiple universes were not appreciated by the dogmatic Catholic Church, and he was burned at the stake.
7. 1564, Michelangelo Buonarroti: The Renaissance sculptor, painter and architect died a natural death. A bit of intrigue revolves around his body which was stolen by his nephew, smuggled out of Rome and brought back and buried in his native Florence. Michelangelo would have wanted it that way.
8. 1929, Giacomo Matteotti: The leader of the opposing political party to Mussolini’s ruling Fascist Party, Matteotti called the elections that put the Fascists in power a sham. Rather than answering with oratory and public criticism, a gang of Fascists led by Mussolini’s press secretary kidnapped Matteotti, killed him and dumped his body outside of Rome. Mussolini benefited greatly from this action of his cronies. Hitler later used this same play when he burned the Reichstag nine years later as a pretext for seizing total power.
9. 1978, Aldo Moro: Moro was an ex-Italian Prime Minister who was kidnapped and eventually killed by the left wing terrorist group Brigate Rosse, (the Red Berets). As with the assassination of any powerful political figure, this killing deeply affected the Italians.
10. 1981, Pope John Paul II: The 271st Pope passed away on April 5, 2005 in his apartment in the Vatican City. John Paul II was also shot and nearly killed on May 13, 1981 in St. Peter’s Square. Why is this event so important? One bullet passed through the Pontiff nearly killing the Pope. If the bullet would have been even millimeters in any other direction it would have surely killed him. The event defined Pope John Paul II’s ministry and commitment to the Virgin Mary; moreover, it is considered a miracle that he was not killed and is one of the three needed for him to be Canonized (i.e. made into a Saint).

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