Salmon and mussel starter from L'Amie Jean

By Sarah— Living in a great city like Paris we often receive the questions:  where do you recommend us going to eat?  which are your favorite places?  Looking back on the last two years and all the delicious meals we’ve eaten, sublime wine we’ve sipped and fantastic atmospheres we’ve enjoyed we have acquired quite a lengthy list of worthwhile places. So here we have our favorites, not necessarily the best in all of Paris, but definitely the locations we frequent.  This list is composed of  the places we have found to be the most interesting, most consistent and best value for the Euro that we have experienced… so far.

After no more ado, here are our Paris favorites arranged from most to least expensive.

L’Amie Jean: Not overly expensive but not cheap either, this little French bistro delivers a quality and authentic dining experience.  The chef Stephane Jego subscribes to idea that haute cusine does not have to be a budget breaker.  The menu focuses on traditional French cooking but Stephane dishes it out in a new and inventive way.  If you are looking for good French food with an interesting twist, we highly recommend this place. Expect the bill to tally around €120 (for two) with a decent bottle of wine and after dinner drinks. A reservation is required.

Monjul: A meal here will run around €110 for two including wine, but the Asian + French fusion warrants the price. This is one of my favorite restaurants not only because I have enjoyed many meals here but because of the, “this is the best meal ever!” comments that our guests make.  My only complaint is that they change their menu infrequently so I tend not to back as often as I would like to. Each dish is unique and interesting in ways even a hardened foodie will find interesting,  with such delectable treats as the silly sounding, yet scrumptious, porky-snacky they have so many things right that they do not need to change their menu often. Recommendations necessary.

Le Comptoir de Relais: Classic sidewalk cafe in the heart of Sant Germain des Pris, which is an area that is great for people watching and relaxing.  Perfect for an afternoon of eating traditional French pates, cheeses and meats while enjoying one of Paris’ most famous neighborhoods without the hefty price-tags of the more famous Cafés just down the street.

Au Sergent Recruteur: All you can eat: Mid-priced classic French country cooking (and a lot of it). We were a bit hesitant to go here the first time, but it was a fun experience. If you have a good group of people and like to not worry about running up the bill with wine then we fully recommend this rustic food barn reminiscent of what you might expect to find in the French countryside after a long carriage ride in the 19th Century.  The food is hearty and plentiful meal starts with a huge basket of fresh veggies and a tasty vinaigrette.  That segways into an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord board of meats, salamis and pates. Wait!  There’s more!  Then there is the main course which is followed by a board of cheeses.  Oh, did I mention that limitless wine is included?  Sure you will be hard pressed to find a Frenchman in here but this place is perfect for getting a good meal and not worrying about running up the bill as the cost is €47 per person without any “surprises” at the end.  Reservations should be made but you can often get a table without.

Bacon and chevre salad from Chez Gladine runs less than €8

Chez Gladine: Cheap, Basque, Lively. In Buttes aux Cailles, this off-the-beaten tourist-path bistro is at maximum capacity every night with French students.  If you arrive any later than 8:00 be prepared for a 30 plus minute wait outside.  But don’t worry, push your way to the bar and order a bottle of wine or beer and enjoy the party outside.  Even though it seems chaotic the staff is friendly (they do speak enough English to put your name on the list and make recommendations), yet efficient at handling the volume of people.  The food is good and basic and there is a lot of dishes so you can’t go wrong. The salads are huge, the duck is delish, and the gateaux basque is sweet.  Don’t be intimidated by the wait or the chaos.  Chez Gladine is a great experience.

Le Pot de Terre: Cheap, French, Touristic. If you are a foodie – don’t bother with this place; however, if you in the mood for decent food without a hefty price tag, then give it a shot. This is a no fuss, no muss restaurant that some would consider very touristy but there are also always a lot of French customers as well.   We always leave satisfied. No reservations necessary.

Au’Petit Grec: Cheap as it can be, Creperie,  Standing room only. On Rue Mouffetard, you can’t miss Au’Petit Grec because it almost always has a line even if the other adjacent creperies are vacant of even a single customer.  The most interesting crepe place we have found which serves up the French staple with a Greek twist.  I like to get here at least once every two weeks for Friday night dinner.  My favorites are the tarama, feta, olives with tomato and lettuce, the bolognese, and the savoyarde. All around good and copious food.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2010/04/22/paris-a-locals-food-picks/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/01/new-orleans-best-crawfish-places/ http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/01/new-orleans-best-crawfish-places/#comments Mon, 01 Feb 2010 07:00:55 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/2008/03/18/new-orleans-best-crawfish-places/ 2010 Update by Dylan O’Donnell- New Orleans

Every day is a festival in Louisiana.  Literally.  The soulful, sultry Bayou State in the southern U.S. boasts of more than 400 festivals annually.  And just as Carnival (January 6^th-Ash Wednesday) winds down it’s time for another season: crawfish season! Known as crayfish outside of the linguistically-dynamic borders of Louisiana, these freshwater crustaceans are at their best from March until June.  Similar to an American Barbecue, the people of southern Louisiana typically eat these tasty “mudbugs” at a crawfish boil: a large social gathering often in someone’s backyard where live crawfish are boiled in massive pots full of heavily spiced water, usually with garlic, cayenne, lemons, salt and pepper.  In fact, Louisiana produces 90% of the crawfish in the world, 70% of which is consumed in the state.  Popular items to boil along with the crawfish include sausage, potatoes, mushrooms, artichokes, and whole garlic.  Once done boiling and soaking, this cornucopia of spicy delectables is poured out onto a large table covered in newspaper, and finally covered in a last round of freshly-squeezed lemon juice.  Then its time to “belly up” to the table and chow down.

Although the meat inside the tail of the crawfish is the real prize, it is quite common, encouraged in fact, to suck the spiced juices from the head as well.  So if you find your self lucky enough to end up in a backyard in southern Louisiana elbow to elbow with locals, staring down at a pile of bright red crawdads and someone asks if you “suck the head after pinching the tail”, don’t be offended, they’re just being nice.

For travelers to New Orleans without the luxury of a local contact, here are 6 places to grab some  boiled crawfish and one place to try if you can’t make it to the Big Easy.  And remember, crawfish go great with a cold pilsner, amber-bodied beer, or chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

1. Lucy’s Retired Surfers’ Bar: Located in the Warehouse District, this spot has long been a favorite happy hour spot for the working crowd, especially on Friday’s. During crawfish season Lucy’s does a boil every Sunday from 4:00 until they’re gone.
2. Yo Mama’s Bar and Grill: Just off Bourbon St. Yo Mama’s has a lot going for it: cheaper beer, great hamburgers, close to Bourbon, 60 + varieties of Tequila…and of course, crawfish. They do a boil during the season from Friday to Sunday starting at 12:30 until about 7:00.
3. Acme Oyster House: The NOLA classic serves up boiled crawfish everyday while they are in season.
4. Franky and Johnny’s: Located in the Uptown area of the city (up the river from the French Quarter) this is where the locals go for award-winning boiled crawfish when they’re not cooking them at home. Their solid menu features other New Orleans favorites like po-boys, muffulettas and homemade bread pudding. This place epitomizes the neighborhood bar and boasts a classic jukebox that only plays 45s. Dancing allowed.
5. Big Fisherman Seafood: Sells boiled crawfish by the pound for you to take away. Prices vary each season for a variety of reasons, but will generally fall between $3.50-$4.50/lb. Because the peeling, pinching and sucking motions necessary do not lend themselves to eating “on the go”, try the bar across the street (next).
6. Bulldog across the street has been kind enough to let people eat the crawfish at their bar; all you have to do is order a drink. Not a bad deal since they feature one of the best draft beer selections in the city!
7. Recommended! Deanie’s French Quarter: The original in Bucktown has been a New Orleans favorite for decades. Now they have opened up a brand new location in the French Quarter that serves up delicious seafood including a spicy and succulent crawfish boil.
8. Now for those of you who are not able to make it to New Orleans you can try Pappadeaux. This seafood kitchen has a few locations throughout the USA, which have a crawfish boil a couple of times weekly. Check their website www.Papadeaux.com for locations and days of the week.

Enjoy this video of how to eat the crawdaddies!

For those of you that are not able to make it to NOLA for the Crawfish season make sure you check out the great activities including a Running with the Bulls in the French Quarter put on my NOLA Bulls.  Check out their link here.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2010/02/01/new-orleans-best-crawfish-places/feed/ 1 http://ikangaroo.com/2010/01/08/madrid-adventures-in-food/ http://ikangaroo.com/2010/01/08/madrid-adventures-in-food/#comments Fri, 08 Jan 2010 15:12:01 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=2137

I’m nominating Spain as the SNACK CAPITAL of the WORLD.  So with Madrid being Spain’s capital it has a lot of gastronomy to live up to, which it certainly does. I have come to understand that the Spanish, no matter what region, consistently, confidently and effortlessly serve-up bite-sized scrumptiousness.   Snacks that stretch the imagination of how food can taste and be presented.  A grazing session through Madrid teaches us all that snacks at the bar can be a cornucopia of morsels, flavors and textures and there is no need to ever sit down for a meal.

While arranging a short visit to Madrid I put out the word on Twitter and asked for some restaurant recommendations.  I did get a few, but strangely I was not told about a specific place.  It was always, “oh I ate at a great place right near Plaza Mayor, but I cannot remember the name” and similar comments.  Now I know why this is: Madrid, like so much of Spain, “is” a restaurant.  It is a sprawling food court of cervecerias, siderias and just plain good ol’ tapas bars.  To fully enjoy this experience you should first change your way of thinking to not look for someplace to eat but rather anyplace that has food in those ubiquitous glass bar cases.  Pop in, have a bite and a drink, if you like it then order another and if not then move on.

Here are a few places and tapas that we enjoyed a lot:

Sidrería El Tigre, Calle de las Infantas, 30, 28004 Madrid, Spain

A very rustic and basic tapas bar complete with a mounted boar’s, typical rock walls and wooden beam ceiling.  Before deciding to finally try it I had passed by a couple of times and always noticed that it was crowded.  To look at the interior I could not really understand why and then I ordered a beer, glass of wine and some tapas that totaled a whopping €4.00.  After paying I took another look around and it dawned on me that this is seems to be a university hang-out, judging by the clientele.  Even though this bar was crowded I was very impressed by the efficiency of the barmen.  There is nothing worse then being ignored at a bar and this was not the case here.  The tapas are not gourmet but the bustling atmosphere and price are hard to beat.

Mercado de la Reina, Calle Gran Vía, 12, 28013 Madrid, Spain

Modern and more upscale this tapas bar and restaurant draws a more buttoned-up after work crowd rather than the t-shirted after class patrons at El Tigre but it is still casual.  Just as the atmosphere is slick so are the tapas which are too many to review but I will say that the potato tortilla here is perhaps the best I have ever had.  If you only have the tortilla here that is served all day this bar is worth it.  Another tapa that I had here, which is common in Spain, was a portion of Padrón peppers.  The green peppers are roasted and then dressed with a bit of olive oil and salt.  But the fun of this tapa is not in the taste but in the thrill.  You see, mostly these peppers are sweet but sometimes they are super duper spicy.  So eating a plate is like playing Spanish Roulette.

Mercado de San Miguel, Plaza de Oriente, 3, 28013 Madrid, Spain

Not a restaurant like Mercado de la Reina but actually a market.  This newly remodeled glass and steel structure houses over 30 stalls that sell fish, meats, books, pastries, wine and beer among a lot of other goods.  There are tables set up or you can just gnash your way through.  We enjoyed buying a glass of champagne and walking with it to sample this and that around the market.

Lizarran, Calle del Prado 4, 28014 Madrid, Spain‎

There are a few of these in Madrid so if you are not into the ‘franchise’ thing you may want to give this a miss.  With that said, I am a sucker for a pinchos restaurant and this place holds its own.  As you would expect at any pinchos bar there are a number of interesting looking and tasty bits served on little slices of bread.  All you have to do is lift up the glass case and choose one.  Keep the toothpicks on your plate so the barman can tally your bill.

Cerveceria Alemana, Plaza de Santa Ana, 6, 28012 Madrid, Spain

Apparently a Hemingway favorite but we had no idea when we visited this typical bar off Plaza de Santa Ana.  This seems and looks like one of those traditional places that women were not allowed into until laws were passed.  The bar was tended by someone who may have actually served Hemingway and the ground was covered with discarded napkins.  Walking into here was like going back 50 or so years, except that it is one of the few places in Madrid that is smoke-free.  Just judging by the location, decor and staff it is obvious that it is an institution and perhaps a tourist trap.  However, we did not find this to be the case in the least.  The prices are clearly marked, the staff was super friendly and the bill was right in line with other prices.  One thing that made us nervous here was that the barman kept offering stuff and when we refused he insisted and said ‘gratis’ (free).  As a rule of thumb you should always ask the price before accepting.  This time it turned out okay but in the past I have gotten burned on the what I like to call “oh my friend you must try this!” scam.  One tapa that I had here that was exceptional was the fried chorizo.  Common as chorizo is I have never had one so tasty.

Madrid is filled with great food and friendly people so even if you still want to sit down and have a meal make sure you don’t miss the opportunity to just go on walk-about and experience the capital of the world’s Snack Capital.  Enjoy and Buen provecho!

In the Gulf of Naples in 6 B.C the Emperor Augustus traded the island of Ischia for Capri.  This swap still resonates today as the island that gained Imperial favor, Capri, remains popular and the other, Ischia, continues to be fairly unknown.  In fact, if you were to ask someone from Ischia about Capri the response would most likely be that Capri is good for a day trip while staying on Ischia, which has so much more to offer.  Over the centuries Ischia has been ruled by occupying armies, countries, pirates and ruling families; however, in spite of its shaky political and natural history it remains faithful to its Greek and Italian roots.  Today the rocky island has a population of about 60,000 that is divided among five towns with the two largest being Ischia Town and Forio. Once on the island, Ischia Town has the most nightlife and shopping while the quieter Forio provides a quaint and relaxing atmosphere.

My wife and I spent four days during the end of May on this island that has remarkable beauty, warm days and crisp nights, whitewashed buildings with blue trim, great food, and friendly people that are proud of their history and island.  Our days were activity filled with swimming, driving the scooter around to the island’s attractions, hiking Mount Epomeo and soaking in the many hot springs while our evenings were spent relaxing and eating the local dishes. As two very independent travelers with vastly different requirements for a relaxing getaway, Ischia satisfied us both as it offers good and unique food plus plenty of activities.  And our enjoyment was compounded because our hosts delivered superior hospitality and a clean place to stay.  Ischia could be precisely what you need if traveling with friends, as a couple, with a family or if you are just looking for a quiet and easy to reach escape from a noisy city hopping grind.

Getting to and around Ischia:

We departed from Naples on a hydrofoil (€18 each way) and within a little over an hour we reached Forio, which is smaller than Iscia Town but with plenty to do and is easy to access the rest of the island. Rather than dealing with public transportation we rented a scooter for €25 per day as it allowed us to set our own schedule.  Although, with the windy roads, fast cars, faster scooters and hills a scooter is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced so a car rental might be a better option- they were not much more than the scooters.  In talking to other travelers we were told that the buses were timely, cheap and adequately got them around.

Where to stay:

We stayed at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is a Colella Family property.  Amerigo, one of the Colella sons, picked us up at the port, brought us to our apartment, recommend things to do on the island, arranged our scooter, transported to and from their restaurant and then finally dropped us off at the port.  From Papa Salvatore and Mama Tina to the three brothers Giuseppe, Amerigo and Lorenzo this clan delivers their promise of family hospitality and as a consequence they provide an authentic Italian experience. From cooking lessons with Mama Tina to learning how to make limoncello with Papa Salvatore to each of the brothers zooming between all their properties to look after the guests the Colella Family provides a truly unique opportunity to learn, rest and enjoy Ischia.

Depending on your preferences the Colellas have three different and distinct accommodation options.

A traditional hotel: Poggio del Sole is on the same land that Salvatore’s and Tina’s respective families owned before they married so in a way it is the land that grew the family.  Each room has its own bathroom and balcony with a sea view and some rooms even have a kitchenette and two balconies.  It is located just above the family restaurant La Casereccia so meals are an easy commute.  The hotel is a good choice if you are looking for a quite get-away.  Poggio del Sole is in a neighborhood that makes it impractical to walk to the port so if you stay here you will want to factor in transportation.

View from patio at Rotonda sul Mare

Apartments and rooms: We chose to stay at La Rotonda sul Mar, which is located on the sea and is a 20 minute stroll from Forio and even less to some bars (in the Italian sense) and restaurants.  Keep in mind that many European beaches are rocky but approximately 300 meters away there is a sandy beach.  From June to September a deck is set up so you can sunbathe right on the water and as of May 2009 there are plans to install a beach bar.  With a few levels of patios, the beautiful sunsets and easy water access we loved the location.  The interiors of the rooms are basic, but very clean and spacious. My wife normally prefers a luxurious feeling room but she found this very comfortable and I had no complaints.

The hostel: Ring hostel is a standard hostel that offers more atmosphere than amenities.  This is one of those places where if the walls could talk, goodness knows what they would say. But as luck would have it the walls do talk in that travelers have been using them as a guest book since Ring Hostel was opened in 2005.

The food: Forio had many tasty restaurants, but our experience was tainted due to one tourist trap.  To start positively, the hotel Poggio del Sole is connected to the family restaurant, La Casereccia, which everyone should try.  It has a traditional wood burning pizza oven and they serve many of their homemade products including Papa Salvatore’s limoncello and prune juice.  La Casereccia is a restaurant where you can “si mangia bene” and stay on budget.  One of the most outstanding dishes that we had was the octopus salad (insalata di polpo).  It is an Ischia specialty so it will be on the menu most places.  In Ischia this salad is prepared by adding some small cut-up octopi with oil, lemon and a few other garden ingredients that results in a simple and tasty appetizer.

Just down the beach from the La Rotonda sul Mar is a string of restaurants that all seem to be about the same.  We chose one at random and ended up being pleasantly surprised. The name is called L’Ancora and it is really not that much to look at but it does have an extension on the beach, which met our single criterion for that meal.  We ordered a frutti del mare pizza complete with octopus, mussels and anchovies and it was fresh and tasty while not being too fishy.  But the real treat was a bruschetta panino that they make with their homemade pizza dough.  I thought that I had seen all variations of the bruschetta but this was a stand out by being served on pizza dough. L’Ancora is a good bet for the restaurants along that strip.

Sometimes the problem with traveling off-season is that many of the places that heavily target tourists will not be opened or in full swing.  Indeed, the port of Forio on a Tuesday night at the end of May was pretty empty. Unfortunately we settled for the restaurant called La Romantica di Porto Francesco because it at least had a few other guests.  When we arrived the waiter seemed nice enough.  He recommended a decent bottle of Greco di Tufo (we found the table white wine on Ischia to be pretty poor) and walked us through the menu making a couple reasonable recommendations.  Then he pulled what I call an “off menu” stunt which is when a waiter suggests a “special dish” that is not on the menu, so there is no price. In this instance although we insisted we were not all that hungry the waiter heartily insisted that we had to try the specialty of the house. As seasoned travelers we know to ask the price – but didn’t as the waiter seemed pleasant and we were feeling comfortable.  In the end we paid as it was way too much food and had a price 2-3 times any other appetizer on the menu. We disputed the bill when it came but the waiter said we had agreed to it. Instead of making a scene we paid and left with another traveler rule more ingrained in our minds.  The lesson is always the same: insist on knowing the price before ordering and when you hear, “I have something special for you” or “don’t worry about it I will make you a special price” most likely you are about to get taken.  It is no surprise that this little scam and overcooked pasta ruined the evening; the wine was decent and a real steal at only 50% the price of the appetizer.

What to do: Hike to the top of the Island:  The hike to the top of Mount Epomeo is easy but strenuous. The hike took us about 45 minutes to an hour but the view from the top alone makes it worth the hike. The hike can get a bit hot so try to do it in the morning. It is strange to think hike and then automatically think food, but there are three places to eat along the way: one at the very bottom, another hidden in the woods about 25% of the way up and another at the very top.

Hunters' rabbit is an Ischia specialty

After the hike we stayed on the top for some cold water and a snack at the restaurant that looked like a mud hut but had, as you might imagine, an excellent view.  My wife sampled the bruschetta, which was a pile of tomatoes and basil bathed in tasty olive oil set on a garlicky half loaf of toasted Italian bread.  I went for the specialty of the region that I discovered while hiking up when I saw a few playful signs advertising coniglio alla cacciatore, translated hunter’s rabbit.  Fortunately, I ordered the coniglio because it was easily the best rabbit that I have ever eaten and among some of the best dishes that I have ever tasted.  It was served in a thick but not too heavy tomato sauce with roasted red bell peppers, onions, garlic along with some white wine, salt, pepper and a few family secrets.  For those that have not tried rabbit the taste is not particularly strong or gamey but has the taste of fowl dark meat with a texture of duck so it is not stringy like chicken.  However, in this recipe the rabbit is smothered in so much sauce that the natural flavor is in a supporting rather than starring role. The pasta dishes that we saw come out were also plentiful, actually enough for two.  Our bill totaled €39.00 with the €18.00 rabbit being the lion’s share of the bill with the bruschetta, salad and half liter of wine making up the difference.  It was an excellent meal and experience- highly recommended.

Negombo: One reason why Augustus decided to trade Ischia was because of the risk of severe volcanic activity was too great to invest building an imperial palace or even spending time there.  But it is exactly all of that activity that creates all of the thermal springs that makes Ischia such a find.  Negombo is a thermal bath park that is one of the best places that we have found while traveling.  We are not a sit on the beach type couple so we appreciated the opportunity to visit the 25 different thermal pools that the resort offers. With everything from hot and cold dips, to Turkish baths, to a variety of heated pools in addition to one of the nicest beaches we saw on Ischia, it is an excellent way for anyone to spend the day.

We spent an enjoyable day trying all of the pools, returning to the ones we liked best, eating lunch and swimming in the ocean. Our favorite was the water cascades that drop water from various heights that when you stand under the water stream it actually gives you a pretty thorough and effective massage. The cost of entry was €29 per person which might not be in everyone’s budget, but both of us felt that it was well worth it as we spent 6 hours jumping from pool to pool. If you decide to go – bring your own towel, a pair of shoes you don’t mind getting wet, and careful of the sun – all that jumping from pool to pool wipes off any sunscreen. Another note is that if you plan on going here to be sure and ask the reception at your hotel for discount coupons which will save you €3 per ticket.

Baia di Sorgeto: Nestled into a small bay and just off the beach are a few warm water pockets that are like hot tubs in the sea.  Also known for the mud that is dredged from around the area, which is used for an all-natural facial this is a worthwhile destination.  Baia di Sorgeto can be reached by bus, taxi, on your own, boat or water taxi from Sant’Angelo.  The rocky beach is not very comfortable but there are lounges to be rented for about €15 and the bar / restaurant is very reasonable.  The mud can be bought either by the jar, or when we were the bar was selling it by the mask.  At times this place can be infested with jellyfish thus making the pools inaccessible.  To avoid this have your hotel receptionist call La Sorgente, the bar / restaurant only meters away, and ask for a jellyfish report.  Phone number: 081.907837.  Nothing would be worse than traveling across Ischia to Baia di Sorgento only to descend the 200 something stairs and learn that the sparkling in the water is really sacs of stinging plasma.

Nitrodi: These sulfur springs have been in use since ancient Romans visited Ischia.  We stopped by and gave them a look but decided against going in because the whole area was not inviting plus the €9 frankly did not seem worth it.  We would recommend this if Baia di Sorgento is infested with jellyfish but on its own with a limited time or financial budget we recommend giving this a miss.

Sant’ Angelo: This fishing village is on the itinerary of every organized tour in Ischia.  The main draw is the beauty created by the isthmus- also a sandy beach- that connects the mainland to a small dot of land that is now covered with hotels.  Sant’ Angelo is great for walking around because they severely limit motor traffic all over town so you are not being constantly buzzed by cars and omnipresent scooters. There is a cluster of bars and cafés on the mainland that are not terribly expensive and there are a lot of shops, with typical tourist stuff in addition too some pretty fun boutiques.  We found that Sant’Angelo was perfect for a light lunch or drink but not worth spending an entire afternoon that is unless you are there for the beach.

After our four days on Ischia we were completely relaxed and recharged. Aside from the “off menu” incident, which could have taken place anywhere, Ischia was a very worthwhile destination.  We felt that we could have stayed a couple more days so now we just have to figure out how to go back!

Where to stay: The Colella Family www.hotelpoggiodelsole.it  or for Ring Hostel www.ringhostel.com  They waill also be able to set up the apartment or room rental at Rotona sul Mar.

Where to eat: At the top of Mount Epomeo, La Casereccia (The Colella Family
restaurant)

Food and drink: Coniglio della Cacciatore; Rucolino is the local liqueur made out of arugula and tastes like Jagermeister; octopus salad; paccheri pasta (large round tubes) with mussels and pecorino.

Where to go: Negombo, Baia di Sorgeto, Sant’ Angelo, Mount Epomeo

Cooking classes: Contact La Casereccia www.lacasereccia.com to inquire about cooking classes and other classes that the Colella Family provides.

When to go: The busy, busy season is in August when the island is full of Europeans.  April – June and Sept – October will still have great weather but Ischia will be quieter.  The benefit of going during the busy season is that everything will be open and there will be a lot more nightlife options.  However, we are more early and late season travelers so we did not mind the fewer options in exchange for no crowds.  While Ischia may be fairly untrodden by English speaking travelers it is not a secret to Germans and Asians so expect to share the island with them no matter when you decide to visit.

The Owl Trail guides you to 22 of Dijon's best sites in the city center.

By Sarah–

Dijon is only an hour and forty minutes from Paris and is a great respite from the busy city.  This city that was once a rich capital of art and culture has plenty to do and see and without the expensive price tags of Paris.We left Paris Wednesday morning and took the train out of Gare de Lyon straight into Dijon. The tickets were purchased the day of the trip, although we could have possibly found them a bit less expensive had we planned further in advance. When we first started to look we found one way tickets for just over 30 euros. That makes the transport around 60, although as I stated for the day off we ended up paying 90 euros round trip per person.

As for accommodation, we found Dijon-rentahome.com lists many quality apartments throughout Dijon. We selected a two bedroom on Rue Verrerie and found the location to be perfect. The apartment was extremely comfortable and affordable. It is well equipped with everything you need for a few days to a few weeks. For the four nights we ended up paying 440. The owners Beatrice and Max have created a wonderful atmosphere and are a great source for local information.  The neighborhood was central and rich with a lot of fun discoveries such as a wonderful boulangerie and numerous shops. The street where our apartment was located is called L’Bout d’la Rue (52, rue Verrerie, 03.80.71.37.92) which had a lovely mussels restaurant (yes nothing but mussels in many varieties of sauce).  We tried the crepe restaurant across the street, but believe it or now we needed reservations and it was booked.  Finally, although we did not try it, around the corner looks to be an interesting cooking school named Atelier des Chefs.com. The cooking school will do courses in English and seem very accommodating.

When we arrived in Dijon we made a quick stop at the helpful Tourist Office and tried a place called Le Concorde.  Located at 2, Place Darcy this typical French brasserie that is perfect for a drink and bathroom stop.  We weren’t hungry so we didn’t sample the food but if you are hungry the plate of the day always comes recommended. The day we were there it was roast beef and mashed potatoes for only 9 euro!  A steal.

There is a plenty to do in Dijon. We found the city planned tour where you follow a path marked by the city good luck charm, the owl, with an accompanying book. The tour takes you around the city with local history and interesting facts.  We slowly walked along the clearly marked path with a few stops into churches and cafes and had a pleasant afternoon. Well worth your time is a visit to this hat shop which was amazing to all of us – Chapellerie Bruyas (65, rue des Godrans, 21000 Dijon, 0380304923). You should also visit the Boutique Maille at 32 rue de la Liberté.  Maille is the famous mustard brand that comes from Dijon and as you would expect they have a pretty nice shop set up displaying all the history of the brand and plenty of opportunities to buy specialized mustard jars and other accessories.

Worth your time is a day trip out to Beaune. We took a train around 11h, returning at 16h. The town is a quaint, picturesque, small town France at its best – once you are inside the walls. We walked the town, visited the wine museum and did a great lunch. If you are a fan of wine this is town for you. Tons of tasting locations and, if a bit rustic, an interesting wine museum. For the approximate 6 euros entry you find out all kind of remarkable facts. If you are not a huge wine enthusiast we would recommend you skip it. Towards the end of the tour we did lunch at Le Galion (5 place Ziem, 21200 Beaune, 03.80.22.65.21). We had salad with warmed camembert, tuna tartar salad, and beef bourgogne. It was a beautiful tranquil square, tasty marvelously presented food for a variety of pallets, and helpful wait staff. If you visit walk the town, check out the ramparts and go to a few of the wine tasting establishments.

In Dijon, we sampled some good restaurants but highly recommend a visit to the local market called Les Halles. It runs Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday and is a spectacle of French cuisine. The architecture of the building is interesting as it was designed by Gustave Eiffel.  For lunch (and unplanned dinner) we purchased pungent cheeses, wonderful pates, sausage, fresh fruit, veggies (asparagus of the woods which was a discovery for us) and a few bottles of wine (a great wine shop is La Carte des Vins, 1 rue Musette, 21000 Dijon, 0380304501, www.achat-dijon.com).

If you do not have the space for eating your own purchases or just want a night out try a walk down Rue Admiral Roussin. There are 4-5 different restaurants that are good and you can’t make a wrong choice, from Italian to crepes to local French food. We tried the Italian restaurant and Le Petit Roi de la Lune (28, rue Admiral Roussin, Dijon, 0380498993). All of the choices were excellent and the service helpful.

One of the highlights of the trip was a tour of the region provided by Max (owner of the apartment). We visited a number of wineries, received personal tours and tutelage about the region, ate a typically delicious Burgundian meal and ended with a short tour of the canals where Beatrice and Max call home. Although not ready to rent when we were there was a barge docked near their home. If you want to do the Burgundy area at a leisurely pace you might also think about renting it out for a short stay.

All in all our visit to Dijon was excellent. The weather turn out perfectly, we walked a ton and then made up for it by eating and drinking the local specialties!

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/06/22/dijon-get-a-way/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2009/06/16/unabellavista-italy-radio-show-podcasts-and-deliciousness/ http://ikangaroo.com/2009/06/16/unabellavista-italy-radio-show-podcasts-and-deliciousness/#comments Wed, 17 Jun 2009 01:13:48 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1775 As previously mentioned Unabellavista’s Anthony Capozzoli in now hosting his own radio show titled, How to Tour Italy. In this hour long show Anthony interviews guests that highlight all the greatness of Italian culture like its food, art and wine plus tips on how to get to Italy and how to travel once you’ve arrived. Hear the show live on Thursdays from 11:00 – 12:00 Central Standard Time (USA) on TalkZone.com, but if you miss it don’t worry because all segments can be downloaded on iTunes to find them there just search “Unabellavista” and they’ll come right up.

As of this update on June 16, 2009 iKangaroo would like to congratulate Anthony on his How to Tour Italy project.  So far he has been churning out helpful videos about everything from how to use the automated ticket machine to buy a train ticket to the history of the Pantheon on his Youtube channel.  Also, his weekly radio show has been hitting the top 10 on the iTunes store under Travel and Places.

This week, June 17, 2009 I will be on the show to talk about and promote iKangaroo’s new free podcasts for Angels & Demons, which can also be found on the iTunes Store.

How to Tour Italy aired for the 1st time on January 22, 2009 and Anthony has done an excellent job of creating some very fun and useful segments as can be attested by the podcasts doing so well on the iTunes Store.  Tune in this Thursday June, 18 at 12:00 CDT to hear Anthony broadcast from Florence Italy with lots of tips and details that will help you know exactly How to tour Italy.  And of course, I’ll be on too.

For your weekly dose of Italy be sure to tune in or download How to Tour Italy with Anthony Capozzoli on TalkZone.com.

This museum is recommended especially for those, like me, who appreciate seeing the same landmarks and monuments that make Paris famous and unique in different scenarios throughout the years.

• Admission: Free (there is a charge for special exhibits)
• Hours: 10:00 am to 6:00 pm- closed on Mondays and certain holidays
• Time to visit: About 90 min
• Recommendations for nearby eating and drinking: Chez Janou and Les Philosphes.

My favorite parts: the section on the French Revolution and all the paintings of Paris’ different landmarks contained in the 18th and 19th century exhibits.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/01/17/free-paris-museum-of-paris-history/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2008/12/12/paris-on-a-budget-rue-mouffetard/ http://ikangaroo.com/2008/12/12/paris-on-a-budget-rue-mouffetard/#comments Fri, 12 Dec 2008 13:15:00 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=1344

By Chris

Rue Mouffetard in Paris’ 5th arrondissement is the definition of the beaten path.  It does not have undiscovered nooks with kindly shop-keepers who serve up surprisingly delicious food or have piles of rare antiques with that certain something that you have been searching the world over.  Instead it is a touristic production line that churns through 1000s of visitors in its countless bistros, restaurants, bars, pubs and sidewalk cafes. To the uninformed and travel elitist it is merely a Left Bank cliche full of indifferent service, mediocre food and cheap souvenirs.  However, if you’re able to accept, as my recent tour guide Alex said, that “you are a tourist” than you’ll find that rue Mouffetard is an exceptional opportunity to enjoy Paris on a budget.  It certainly has some good finds and overall great deals set in a bustling neighborhood that was born in Roman times close to 2000 years ago. A walk from the top of Mouffetard to the bottom will give you ample opportunity to take in small fun cafes and inexpensive restaurants.  Here are some I want to share.

Let’s start our exploration at the top of Mouffetard at 39 rue Descartes which is just above Mouffetard and close to the Pantheon, where Fucoult’s Pendulum is located.  In the 1920’s a poor and unknown Earnest Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, lived in this building in a small third floor cold-water walk-up.  Today there is a plaque just under a canopy for a restaurant named La Maison de la Verlaine that informs passers by that Hemingway lived there from 1921-25.  We ate a Sunday lunch there that included two fixed menus plus wine which totaled close to 50€.  I had the frog legs with pomme frites which I thought were average (you never really want average frog legs) and overall we didn’t think the place or food were remarkable.

Down the street about 200 meters is Place de la Contrescarpe which is surrounded by some typical Parisian cafes and pubs– among them is Cafe Delmas, formerly Cafe des Armateurs which Hemingway called the cesspool of Mouffetard which now is now is nice but somewhat corporate –  that occupy prime real estate for people watching, grabbing a drink and enjoying this classic square.  Any of the cafes offer a similar experience and all are quite pricey relative to their neighbors just a few dozen meters away in any direction.  Nevertheless, they are less expensive alternatives, if not as fashionable, to their counterparts on the Champs or in Saint Germain, and all have the added benefit of very limited motor traffic therefore less noise.

As you are walking through this area you will probably notice lot’s of signs advertising Happy Hour at the scores of bars in the area– funny enough: the French wanted to get rid of the term ‘week-end’ because it is English but ‘happy hour’ seems to be going strong.  Generally happy hours in Paris are from 17:00 (5 pm) to 20:00, sometimes as late as 22:00, and drink prices are heavily discounted as much as 50%. Mouffetard has some of the best (i.e. cheapest) happy hours in Paris.  Here are two pub selections: one chosen for its comfortable atmosphere and inexpensive drinks and the other for its history.  PUB #1, The Fifth Bar located at number 62. This dive is a neighborhood hangout / college pub that offers the cheapest happy hour pints in the area, and I would guess Paris, for only €2.50.  The Fifth Bar also has free English newspapers and magazines, a friendly bar staff, beer-pong tournaments and the whole place seems to be set-up to meet people.  It is a good choice for groups, lone travelers, everyone sticking to a budget, and they will show the match / game (NFL, Soccer, Rugby) if you ask.  Happy hour ends at 21:00 (9pm) with drink specials all night on Thursdays.  PUB #2, Roadhouse le Vieux Chene at number 69. Not as cheap as Fifth Bar but it still has worthwhile happy hour deals ranging from €3.50 Stellas to €6.00 cocktails.  The interior is clean rustic, which means that it is designed to look like an old roadhouse.  I have been there a couple of times and the bar staff has always been friendly.  To me the history of a place is always a big draw and this pub has the distinction of being in a location that has been selling wine since the late 1500s as explained on the historical marker just to the left of the entrance.

Now to eat. Paris has a variety of crepe and sandwich stands.  From shoddy set-ups in the back of trucks to take away (emporter) windows in established restaurants these French stuffed pancakes can be an inexpensive and filling meal.  I am not a crepe connoisseur and historically I thought that all crepes are pretty similar, however, as I have experienced on Mouffetard this simply is not the case.  AU P’TIT GREC at number 66 seems to be an institution as evidenced by all the people migrate there leaving adjacent crepe shops empty.  I have tried these crepes which are made by a Greek family from Thessaloniki and I was impressed. Their crepes are the most interesting I have eaten in that the proprietors instill their Greek heritage by mixing in some feta with the usual ingredients.  It’s worth the wait and prices are right in line with the competition at €3 to €4.50 so they seem to be winning this crepe war based solely on their superior product.

For more of a sit down experience try Le Mouff’tot Mouff’tard at number 73.  In terms of the food it was above average- not outstanding, but good–, yet when the cost of about €40 per person including wine (wine there- table wine anyways- is cheap (€9 per 50cl), a rarity in Paris) is factored in this restaurant becomes a good choice.  When I ate there pushed the upward price bounds (i.e. the most expensive menu and numerous carafes wine) and the price was still reasonable.  The owner and his wait staff were very attentive and I was particularly impressed that when I left something there and returned a week later that they had remembered me and were happy to return my property.  This is no Michelin star property but it came recommended by some people in the neighborhood and it met my expectations as a decent place with good food at a reasonable price.

A classic French brasserie that I like a lot is called Le Mouffetard at 116.  From its appearance this is a cliche French brassiere, a possibly a tourist trap, because of its ornate trimmings, colorful vintage French advertising posters and zinc bar.  Yet, I have found this restaurant to be friendly, if you take your drink at the bar it is cheap and the food is good.  One of my favorite meals there was a cheesy, potato and bacon dish called tartiflette (€11 including a small salad) which was served in an individual baking dish so you know that it was baked fresh as opposed to just reheated and slapped on a plate.  Tartiflette comes from the mountain region in France and it an excellent and hardy meal for one of those cold and damp Parisian winter days.

Another restaurant that was recommended by locals is called La Salle a Manger at 138, specializing in salads and tartines, located in the market area at the end of the rue. They are only open for breakfast, lunch and brunch.  I had a salad that was big enough for two and was a nice break from the more traditional French fare.  The prices are very affordable to the budget conscious and this restaurant is also nice because of its outdoor seating amidst the hustle and bustle of the market- if you are into that type of thing.

For a little more of an elegant affair or perhaps a glass of wine try Cave La Bourgogne at 144.  This is another classic French brasserie but what I find most interesting is that it is decorated with vintage pictures of the area.  I always like these places and tremendously enjoy the pictures of people doing the exact some thing in the same place but 50 years or so ago.  Cave La Bourgogne is perfect for a cup of coffee €1.20 or a glass of wine €3.00 and it also has a nice terrace with excellent people watching values. For a quick lunch or a snack they have a great country platter (cheese, meat and vegetables served on a wooden cutting board), which will run about €10.00.

Last and my favorite of the lot is Cafe Lea which is located off the bottom of Mouffetard at 5 Claude-Bernard.  This cafe is popular with the work crowd so if you want to lunch here either arrive early around noon or after 14:00 when the work crowd has dissipated but you then run the risk of not getting the best menu items as they will have assuredly sold out for the day.  The menu is ever changing and consists of variations on classic French dishes.  Entrees run around €15 and you can expect to drop ~€25 per person if you want to do the whole French lunch (i.e. entree, desert, wine and cafe), which is a good deal considering the quality food you are getting in Cafe Lea’s fun and fresh atmosphere.  The service is efficent, polite and consistent.  With that said, they do a booming lunch business and understand that table turn-over equals increased revenues so be prepared for this or try timing your lunch a bit later at around 14:00 as most French will be winding down and going back to work.

Now to wrap up with a great coffee.  My personal favorite both for the €1.00 price-tag and quality of coffee is called Brulerie des Ternes at number 111.  This cafe, and I use the term loosely, is nothing more than a coffee purveyor with a couple of seats and four standing tables.  The coffee is strong and the view is good so for a quick cafe break this place would be hard to beat, especially on a nice day.

Okay now that you are sold on how great the 5th is you probably want to know where to stay.  Sure there are lots of hotels in the area and I hope that people will give me some feedback about which they have enjoyed for now all I have is the hostel called Young and Happy at number 80 rue Moufftard.  In terms of location this hostel is hard to beat and generally it is everything a backpacker expects in a youth hostel (i.e. bunk beds, shared bathrooms and somewhat cramped quarters).  The prices are right in line with other Parisian hostels.  The feedback that I have gotten about Y&H has been positive but it has been mentioned by some backpackers I chatted with who were staying there wished it has more social space.  However, I spoke with the manager, Charles, and they are in the middle of a renovation so look for more chatting-up space in 2009.

Rue Moufftard may be a heavily touristic area but it is far from a tourist trap if you know where to go.  Mix  tourists in with French students, an old neighborhood and a high concentration of French businesses and what you have is an opportunity to have an unique French experience.  One last note: Mondays are very slow here as the markets and many of the places that I have mentioned are closed, so keep in mind that Mondays are not the day to get the full Mouffetard experience..

If you have had an experience in The Mouffetard that you would like to share please do not hesitate.  Thanks for reading.

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2008/12/12/paris-on-a-budget-rue-mouffetard/feed/ 0 http://ikangaroo.com/2008/09/21/sarah-marais/ http://ikangaroo.com/2008/09/21/sarah-marais/#comments Sun, 21 Sep 2008 10:30:35 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/?p=737

By Sarah–

As you know from my last post I am now living in Paris. Life is starting to settle to a normal pace so I have time to share some of my discoveries.  In the first month in Paris I rented a short term studio in the Marais (French for marshes), a neighborhood with an interesting culture.  There are museums including some of my favorites such as Centre Pompidou and the Picasso museum.  I chose the Marais because of its constant activity, plus, luckily I was able to find a ‘reasonably’ priced apartment (€1,400 fully furnished). I loved it when I first arrived, but quickly realized that the byproducts of the hustle and bustle is a lot of noise and the inability to escape it. Therefore, I choose my permanent apartment in the more tranquil 13th, so expect to read more about my findings in my new neighborhood.  First click through for share a few of my favorite discoveries in the Marais including a handy interactive map that will help you find what I consider to be worthwhile.

Recommendations, Les Philosophes: 28, Rue Vieille de Temple: Ph: 01 4887 4964

• Do not confuse the nearby “Rue du Temple” with “Rue Vieille de Temple”
• Excellent people watching location
• The house specialties of tomato tart tartin and duck under whelmed me
• If you want to eat there try selections from the menu of the day over the house specialties
• Great outdoor people watching

Second, for pastis and a delicious Sunday lunch, I recommend Chez Janou. Tucked into a corner a block from Place de Vosges is this airy restaurant with a brightly colored interior specializing in Southern French cuisine. Before going for Sunday lunch I tried to have dinner at this restaurant twice, both times without success as the wait was long and I too hungry. We were running on American time for an early lunch (Noon) and they had a seat for us, I recommend making a reservation because by 1:00 the place was full. We started the meal with pastis, they have 35 different flavors for only €3.50. Usually I am not a fan of this liquorish flavored drink mixed with water, but at Chez Janou their extremely friendly (and English speaking) servers recommended a melon flavored one that I quite liked. For the meal we tried a starter of escargot in a light cream sauce that was quickly gone. As for the main courses we had scallops with risotto and duck with potatoes; each dish was hearty and flavorful. Overall, I was satisfied with Chez Janou. It has a warm interior (which could be a little cramped for groups of six or more), large, tasty portions and pastis. We got all this for only €66.00 including a bottle of wine.

My recommendations for Chez Janou: 2 rue Roger-Verlomme:  Ph: 01-42-72-28-41

• Make a reservation, but if you can’t then arrive early
• The food was plenty and very tasty so bring your appetitie
• Try the pastis

And finally my new favorite place for an excellent meal, Monjul. I am always looking for a new and interesting place and I walked by Monjul a few times before it caught my eye. The understated, yet elegant, exterior does not scream its presence but the menu and pictures persuade me to give it a shot. During the first visit I was blown away by how well thought out this place is from the dishes to the food. I have now eaten there twice and still can’t wait to return. I recommend everyone I know to eat here because the meal is a delighting combination of cultures and flavors in a comfortable and elegant space. For me, the defining characteristic of Monjul is the attention to detail. For a precursor to my starter I was brought a shot glass filled with a tomato gazpacho that had a combination of flavors that included (I think) fish, fresh tomato, jalapeno and pineapple. It was a spicy, savory, sweet bit of deliciousness that ramped up my expectations for the meal. My real starter was a smooth cold asparagus soup topped with white foam that managed to make the quiet robust flavored soup seem delicate. Also on the plate were a few pieces of pickled asparagus and a sweet sauce. One of the most exciting elements of the meal is that the chef really understands how to combine the flavors on the plate to create interesting changes to the dish, each time you combine the elements in a different way it takes on a new flavor! The main and the dessert were both as great as the starter, I had the lotte (monkfish) which was served with fresh dill, parsley and a few Parmesan crisps along side a wasabi paste. The desert was a mix of banana flavors, from milkshake, ice cream and chocolate cake. The second time that I visited Monjul was just as great as the first. From the photographs we snapped of the meal you can see what we tried a bit of everything on the menu!

My recommendations for Monjul: 28, Rue Blancs Manteaux: PH: 01 42 74 40 15

• Try it!
• The dinner menu comes in at €29 which when you add wine can reach over €100 for a couple, however, as is true for most French restaurants lunch is 30% less for fixed menus
• Make reservations, the place only seats about 50 and they do not rush to turn over the tables so get in early and stay late.

The Marais is a fun area so check it out if you have time while you are in Paris. If you have time and recommendations for me to check out please let me know!

Thanks for reading,

Sarah

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