I’m nominating Spain as the SNACK CAPITAL of the WORLD.  So with Madrid being Spain’s capital it has a lot of gastronomy to live up to, which it certainly does. I have come to understand that the Spanish, no matter what region, consistently, confidently and effortlessly serve-up bite-sized scrumptiousness.   Snacks that stretch the imagination of how food can taste and be presented.  A grazing session through Madrid teaches us all that snacks at the bar can be a cornucopia of morsels, flavors and textures and there is no need to ever sit down for a meal.

While arranging a short visit to Madrid I put out the word on Twitter and asked for some restaurant recommendations.  I did get a few, but strangely I was not told about a specific place.  It was always, “oh I ate at a great place right near Plaza Mayor, but I cannot remember the name” and similar comments.  Now I know why this is: Madrid, like so much of Spain, “is” a restaurant.  It is a sprawling food court of cervecerias, siderias and just plain good ol’ tapas bars.  To fully enjoy this experience you should first change your way of thinking to not look for someplace to eat but rather anyplace that has food in those ubiquitous glass bar cases.  Pop in, have a bite and a drink, if you like it then order another and if not then move on.

Here are a few places and tapas that we enjoyed a lot:

Sidrería El Tigre, Calle de las Infantas, 30, 28004 Madrid, Spain

A very rustic and basic tapas bar complete with a mounted boar’s, typical rock walls and wooden beam ceiling.  Before deciding to finally try it I had passed by a couple of times and always noticed that it was crowded.  To look at the interior I could not really understand why and then I ordered a beer, glass of wine and some tapas that totaled a whopping €4.00.  After paying I took another look around and it dawned on me that this is seems to be a university hang-out, judging by the clientele.  Even though this bar was crowded I was very impressed by the efficiency of the barmen.  There is nothing worse then being ignored at a bar and this was not the case here.  The tapas are not gourmet but the bustling atmosphere and price are hard to beat.

Mercado de la Reina, Calle Gran Vía, 12, 28013 Madrid, Spain

Modern and more upscale this tapas bar and restaurant draws a more buttoned-up after work crowd rather than the t-shirted after class patrons at El Tigre but it is still casual.  Just as the atmosphere is slick so are the tapas which are too many to review but I will say that the potato tortilla here is perhaps the best I have ever had.  If you only have the tortilla here that is served all day this bar is worth it.  Another tapa that I had here, which is common in Spain, was a portion of Padrón peppers.  The green peppers are roasted and then dressed with a bit of olive oil and salt.  But the fun of this tapa is not in the taste but in the thrill.  You see, mostly these peppers are sweet but sometimes they are super duper spicy.  So eating a plate is like playing Spanish Roulette.

Mercado de San Miguel, Plaza de Oriente, 3, 28013 Madrid, Spain

Not a restaurant like Mercado de la Reina but actually a market.  This newly remodeled glass and steel structure houses over 30 stalls that sell fish, meats, books, pastries, wine and beer among a lot of other goods.  There are tables set up or you can just gnash your way through.  We enjoyed buying a glass of champagne and walking with it to sample this and that around the market.

Lizarran, Calle del Prado 4, 28014 Madrid, Spain‎

There are a few of these in Madrid so if you are not into the ‘franchise’ thing you may want to give this a miss.  With that said, I am a sucker for a pinchos restaurant and this place holds its own.  As you would expect at any pinchos bar there are a number of interesting looking and tasty bits served on little slices of bread.  All you have to do is lift up the glass case and choose one.  Keep the toothpicks on your plate so the barman can tally your bill.

Cerveceria Alemana, Plaza de Santa Ana, 6, 28012 Madrid, Spain

Apparently a Hemingway favorite but we had no idea when we visited this typical bar off Plaza de Santa Ana.  This seems and looks like one of those traditional places that women were not allowed into until laws were passed.  The bar was tended by someone who may have actually served Hemingway and the ground was covered with discarded napkins.  Walking into here was like going back 50 or so years, except that it is one of the few places in Madrid that is smoke-free.  Just judging by the location, decor and staff it is obvious that it is an institution and perhaps a tourist trap.  However, we did not find this to be the case in the least.  The prices are clearly marked, the staff was super friendly and the bill was right in line with other prices.  One thing that made us nervous here was that the barman kept offering stuff and when we refused he insisted and said ‘gratis’ (free).  As a rule of thumb you should always ask the price before accepting.  This time it turned out okay but in the past I have gotten burned on the what I like to call “oh my friend you must try this!” scam.  One tapa that I had here that was exceptional was the fried chorizo.  Common as chorizo is I have never had one so tasty.

Madrid is filled with great food and friendly people so even if you still want to sit down and have a meal make sure you don’t miss the opportunity to just go on walk-about and experience the capital of the world’s Snack Capital.  Enjoy and Buen provecho!

Jose Ramon Elizandro (Joserra) at Alona Berri

I am always nervous about ordering at a new restaurant.  Will it be good? Will my meal be best item on the menu?  My greatest fear is that I will choose poorly while one of my dining mates hits the deliciousness jackpot resulting in my stewing while they relish.  I call this feeling ‘food envy’, which for me manifests itself as an almost uncontrollable impulse to toss my plate aside and lunge at another’s food.  When eating out food envy always seems to be a possibility until you can find someplace where chefs execute scrumptious miniature gourmet morsels that are so cheap that it you don’t like them then there is no worry.  And if someone else has something better than you then you can easily have the same without breaking the bank.   I suppose, while I am dreaming, I would like for that place to be by the sea and have sandy beaches and a pumping nightlife.  Wait!  That place does exist!  Actually it is a whole city called San Sebastian in the Basque Country in Spain and it is a foodie paradise that is void of food envy.

While searching for worthwhile culinary adventure, on Twitter, I asked for suggestions about worthwhile destinations and promptly Linda Fox (@foxychops) suggested San Sebastian.  I quickly learned that San Sebastian has many quality restaurants in a small area and an extraordinary gusto for food.  Additionally, the city has large and clean sandy beaches, stunning vistas and a lively nightlife.  I still had some questions about activities so I emailed the San Sebastian Tourist Office and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that they were responsive and very helpful.  I was sold.

There is an old saying that says that ‘heaven is where all the cooks are Spanish.’ Growing up in an Italian family with a rich food culture I’d never have believed this, especially since my only experience with anything even remotely Spanish was a dish called Spanish rice, which I remember from my elementary school days as being pasty rice goop that could crawl down a wall.  However, I’ve since learned that this statement may be true, especially of the Basque Region.

A pinch of gastronomy that is arguably the base of Basque culture is the pintxo (‘peen-sho’) which is a variation of tapas common throughout Spain.  There is no strict definition for a pintxo – in fact there are too many varieties to even count – but the word means ‘spike’ because there is often a wooden spear skewing the bite sized snack.  Some places tally the bill by counting the toothpicks on your plate.  The accepted legend is that tapas / pintxos are the result of a 13^th Century law imposed by King Alfonso X either for health reasons or to prevent drunk driving.  Since then pintxos have become a key ingredient of the San Sebastian cultural palette.  This can be seen  nightly when the town’s streets fills up with people on  pintxos bar hop called a txikiteo (‘chickie-te-o’) that happens from about 7pm until the famously late Spanish dinner time that barely starts by 10pm.  Besides being fun, the txikiteo is one of those rare authentic cultural activities that is assessable to tourists.

The heart of the San Sebastian’s pintxos district is the Parte Viaja which the cobble stoned lined old town that is full of pubs and numerous taverns serving the local snacks that range from basic to gourmet and cost between €1.50 to €3.00 apiece.  Glasses of beer and wine run about the same price.  However, don’t limit yourself to the Parte Vieja because there are notable taverns all over the 180,000-person city.

Some notable restaurants:

Alona Berri-  Located in Gros, about a 20 minute walk from the Parte Viaja, this is one of the most famous pintxos restaurants in San Sebastian. Owned and run by Jose Ramon Elizandro, Joserra (pictured at top), who is a seasoned veteran of the San Sebastian food scene, this small restaurant needs to be on any txikiteo.  Alona Berri is much more posh and experimental as the tag-line “Alta cocina in Minitura” (upscale food in miniature) implies.  The service here was excellent and the food resembled a tasting menu at a chic restaurant. The only exceptions being the causal atmosphere and featherweight bill totaling €70.00 which included 15 pintxos, 2 glasses of wine, a bottle of wine and an after dinner drink.  One of the best price to quality restaurants that one could ever expect to experience.  Take your food and drink at the bar for a 7% discount or enjoy the excellent service sitting down and enjoying the spectrum of interesting and tasty miniature dishes.

Bar Gorriti-  At the edge of the Parte Vieja you’ll find this nondescript and very authentic tavern.  You might be tempted to only stick your head in, thinking that you’ll find something better down the road, which you might, but the great thing about a txikiteo is that you don’t have to commit more than €1.50 and 10 minutes.  Bar Gorriti has the same pinxtos found throughout the whole quarter but I found them among the largest that I saw.  Take a minute to peruse the pictures on the walls to see how the adjacent square, which used to be the main market that is now underground, has looked over the decades.

Bar Nestor-  Famous for its tortilla which is generally regarded the best in San Sebastian.  Don’t expect to just walk in and get a slice of this revered potato pie, you will have to plan ahead and possibly reserve a piece.  Tortillas are only served twice a day at 1:00 and 8:00pm.  Try stopping by at least 2 hours before hand if you do not just want to try your luck.

A Fuego Negro-  Right on 31 Augusto which is a main vein pumping through the Parte Vieja you’ll find this unique restaurant run by the next generation of pinxtos artists.  A Fuego Negro is an updated pintxos bar and restaurant which pushes the envelop both in terms of superbly executed pintxos mini soups such as tomato puree, mussels and béchamel and décor that is a refreshing contrast to traditional wooden interiors.

Ganderias-  No trip to Spain would be complete without indulging yourself in a big plate of jambon serrano (ham) and a steak.  Ganderias is a straightforward steakhouse that serves tender aged beef by the kilo so bring your appetite (i.e. skip the last three or so pinxtos).  Ganderias is very reasonably priced, especially considering the quality of meat.  We escaped with a bill of only €75.00, which included a mixed ham plate, kilo of steak, bottle of wine, bottled water and after dinner drink.  The portions were too big for one person and it was accepted, and perhaps even expected, that everything be split between at least two.

Gabriella our friendly cooking teacher from Tenedor Tours.

If you that want to bring your new found pintxos love home to impress your friends or just want to develop your cooking skills, I recommend the pintxos cooking classes run by Tenedor Tours.  Besides being a great way to spend an afternoon you learn how to make your own pintxos so that your Basque experience will live on.  Recommended by the San Sebastian Tourist Office, Tenedor is run by transplanted New Yorker Gabriella Ranelli de Aguirre.  The class is advertised as 3 hours long (ours lasted longer when you include eating time) and costs €125 per person which includes the lesson, food and wine.  Gabriella brings the group on a pretty solid walking tour to stores to buy and sample cheeses and meats while she shares her anecdotes that she has accumulated while living in San Sebastian for 10 years.  Besides the many useful cooking tips we learned, Gabriella focuses on pintxos made of common ingredients that can be easily made at home.  Our lesson included how to make six types of pintxos, homemade mayonnaise and gazpacho.  Groups are limited to about 8 and lessons are given in a super nice flat in the Parte Vieja that is fully equipped and spacious enough for the group to move about freely.  For a budget traveler €125 may be out of range but consider that food, wine and a unique experience is included.  We have recreated the recipes and utilized the cooking tips all with great success!

All the excitement of a complex yet assessable tasting menu, San Sebastian cuisine is the perfect  getaway from food envy that will satisfy any foodie.  As previously mentioned the Tourist Office is a huge help.  Even if you do not book online for the activities make sure that you stop by the office to get updated information and to book your activities such as sailing, a pintxos tour and of course the cooking class.  Walking tours also originate there for €6 and provide a decent city overview in terms of both the history and orientation.  San Sebastian is very popular with the Spanish so getting a room in high August season will be more challenging and expensive.  Moreover, because of its proximity to Pamplona many people use it as a base for their bull running excursion so plan a head for the first week in July.

Where to stay:

NH Aranzazu-  Good customer service, big and clean rooms and reasonably priced.  This hotel is a distance from the Parte Vieja and not practical to walk but the bus is close by and frequent and there is a beach with walking distance.  Cabs run about 6 – €8 depending on the time of day.  www.nh-hotels.com/NHAranzazu

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2009/09/16/san-sebastian-spain-a-foodie-paradise/feed/ 1 http://ikangaroo.com/2007/10/22/hola-carlos/ http://ikangaroo.com/2007/10/22/hola-carlos/#comments Mon, 22 Oct 2007 21:12:37 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/2007/10/22/hola-carlos/ iKangaroo would like to welcome Carlos as one of our travel experts, who will be contributing his thoughts about Spain, art and Spanish.

Born and bred in Pennsylvania, with family ties in Puerto Rico where at age eight he started to master and become bi-lingual in Spanish.

While at Penn State University, Carlos studied in Spain where he became educated on its culture and  food while falling in love with the country and its people.  Moreover, he traveled the country extensively and learned the tricks, as only a bi-lingual traveler can, that will make your trip to

Besides contributing to iKangaroo, Carlos -or Los- juggles his time between his photography- see www.carlosmejiasphotography.com, contributing to art exhibits, maintaining his website, working and more school.  He also donates his time and photography to help raise money for charity.  If that is not enough, he is getting a calendar published and is developing a book idea.

Los will alert iKangaroo about easier ways to navigate Spain, off-the-beaten-path things to see, food suggestions and other bits of information that will save you time and money in Spain!  

Welcome aboard Los!

HelloBCN is a hip, colorful, clean and well-located budget accommodation in Barcelona where travelers can sleep for a reasonable price, get a beer at the on-site bar while watching whichever game / match, wash the road grime from their clothes, surf the Internet for free and, if you please, squeeze in some exercise.  Plus, as is requisite with all great hostels, HelloBCN has a social atmosphere conducive to meeting other travelers.

It is no secret that Barcelona is a fantastic tourist destination and the poster city for urban rebirth after its hosting the ‘92 Summer Olympics.  Something you may not know is that 20% of inbound flights to Spain are by budget airlines, which makes getting there a bargain.  Budget accommodations in Barcelona are currently undergoing a transformation as can be seen by the growing number of hostels being opened in the Catalan capital, which is quickly becoming, along with Berlin, Flashpacker central.  A Flashpacker is far removed from her backpacking ancestors in that they have higher demands on cleanliness, comfort and amenities that 5 years ago were reserved for people traveling on let’s say a more healthy budget.

HelloBCN is being managed by a friendly  Australian, who has 6 years experience in the Barcelona budget accommodation game.  The hostel was opened in 2006 and offers 4 to 8 beds per room and a limited number of private rooms.  HelloBCN takes pride in having the reasonable nightly rate reflect everything so that travelers do not have to worry about being charged for things like showers, sheets, blankets and Internet (free WiFi is also available  for all of you traveling with a laptop).  Other amenities include laundry facilities (3 Euro per wash and 3 Euro per dry), a bar with satellite tele and something that we at iKangaroo have not seen before which is a work-out facility with a number of stationary machines.

Happy Travels and enjoy Barcelona

]]> http://ikangaroo.com/2007/09/28/accommodation-review-hellobcn-in-barcelona/feed/ 1 http://ikangaroo.com/2007/09/14/barcelonas-biggest-party-la-merce-festival/ http://ikangaroo.com/2007/09/14/barcelonas-biggest-party-la-merce-festival/#comments Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:44:00 +0000 Chris http://ikangaroo.com/2007/09/14/barcelonas-biggest-party-la-merce-festival/ Anyone who has been to Spain can attest to the fact that the Spanish can party.  We think it’s the siesta that gives Spaniards the energy to eat dinner around 10:00 pm , party until the wee hours and then make it to work the next morning only to start the whole cycle again.  On August 24th Barcelona will be hosting its annual La Merce Festival, which is dedicated to the patron of Barcelona the Virgin de la Merce and intended to be a send-off to the hot summer months and a welcome to the cooler weather.  A quick rundown on what to expect:  fire-breathing dragons, human towers, which can get 7 levels high, costumed giants and plenty of food and drink.  It is the perfect opportunity to sample or indulge in Cava, which is Catalonia’s very own champagne.

Recommended sightseeing tour:  Fat Tire Bike Tour.  Tour meets daily at 11:00 am and 16:00 / 4:00 pm daily at Piazza Sant Jaume.

Recommended budget accommodations:  HelloBCN Hostel, Kabul, Alberg Palau, Hostel New York.

Get tickets to a futbol / soccer / football match:  Barcelona is playing Zaragoza on August 26th and you can get tickets delivered to you hotel for as little as 50 Euro.  Visit http://www.spanish-fiestas.com/football/barcelona.htm for more information.

Other helpful Barcelona links: http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com which has other recommendations for accommodations and how to navigate Barcelona.

Que tengas buenas tiempos!

Place: Main square in Buñol, Spain.  Just west of Valencia

Why you want to go:  the chance to smear 240,000 lbs. of tomatos on 30,000 people while wearing protective goggles.

Logistics:  Buñol is pretty small and does not accommodate very well with its one hotel.  Staying in Valencia and traveling over to Buñol for the event is the best option.  Whereas Valencia is not on a lot of travelers radar it is a very good destination and well worth a visit, especially during this event.

Place to stay:  Try Home Youth Hostel.  As of the time of this post on August 14, 2007 they still had rooms and beds for between $22 for a bed in a dorm to $30 for a room.

Happy tomato fighting and let us know how it goes.

iKangaroo

It is that time of the year where the world descends upon an otherwise sleepy town in Spain. So put on your red and white and lets run with the bulls. Before I go on I am putting in the disclaimer that whatever information follows is for general knowledge and iKangaroo is not responsible if you read this and decide to run or jump off a tower or perform any of the other traditional acts that defy reason. After-all, a statistic is just that until it happens to you when it then becomes a_________? With this said based on a number of sources including personal experience here are some stats aggregated from 1980 to 2006 that may come in handy if you do decide to take a run on the .8km stretch of Pamplona street:

• About 4,000 people run on the weekends compared to 2,500 during the week
• The highest number of gorings happens on Mondays with about 1.2
• Average number of gorings per race is .94
• Since 1980 till this writing on July 6, 2007 there have been 3 fatalities
• Average number of injuries per race demanding a trip to the hospital equals 4.05
• Average number of 1st aid cases equals 30.1

These numbers do not take into account the injuries related to tourists that jump off balconies and other heights into sometimes waiting crowds; yep, that’s right, sometimes waiting crowds. After-all, there is a lot going on and people turn away. I saw an example 1st hand as I was eating what must have been the best tapas ever. I have no idea if he ever walked again.

Things to watch out for that increase your chances of getting hurt:

• Do not be a foreigner. The general consensus is that foreigners make up a small percentage of the runners and a disproportionate number of the injured.
• Do not be under the influence of anything
• Be well rested
• Be fit
• Do not touch the bulls. You may get beaten down someone from Pamplona
• If its wet, you might slip and that is bad
• Different bulls, from different ranches traditionally have different aggression levels and goring records. The ranches with the most gorings are the Torrestrella, Jardilla and Cabada

I know these are stating the obvious and will make no difference once a bunch of sangria has been downed and it is 7:59, but at least ask the bull where he is from. For those of you that have also been to Pamplona for what we like to call the best atmosphere ever please keep us informed as to how it all played out this year. We would appreciate any stories, tips, strategies, pictures or videos that you may have taken. And for those of you that are thinking about going in the future do not forget to check back in to see all the juicy info that we have put together for you.

Eskerrik asko and Lasai (Basque for thanks and take it easy)

The iKangaroo Team